Jacket
1800-1880 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Jacket, woven silk satin and metal thread, twill binding, faced with bias-cut plain weave silk, lined with glazed roller printed resist plain weave cotton, with woollen ties.
Jacket, multi-pieced with some of the pieces placed/sewn upside down. The jacket has a large ovoid from opening, with a cross-over panel at the waist to hem level overlapping left over right, which originally fastened on the right waist side with a button; a grey 2-plied silk cord loop still remains. Inside, 2 long ties survive on the right inside flap and on the left inside seams; both are made from the printed cotton lining fabric. The garment is formed of one back panel with various shaped inserts down both side, back and front, and the sleeves, set at right angles to the main garment; seams on the shoulder panels. The sleeves are unseamed joining only at the underarm to the open gusset. A 7 cm fabric loop is sewn either side of the open seam at each elbow area. The cuffs are extended into a tiny point, centre top. All openings are faced, including the side hip slits [12 cm long]. The hip level inserts are triangular. The neckband is reinforced with the patterned silk.
Main silk: Dark blue satin ground with an offset pattern of a flowering plant with green leaves, surmounted by 2 confronting birds, with a small stylised motif between them and a larger fish [?] motif between the plants. The plant and birds are in silver metal thread with white silk flower centres and white or alternatively red wing details on the birds - all are outlined in pink.
Warp: dark blue silk, Z-twist
Weft: brown silk foundation weft; white, pink, light green, red and silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Part of a selvedge is visible and has bright green warp threads.
Facing: bias cut red plain weave silk with a fine yellow stripe.
Lining: dark blue glazed cotton with a small white feather or boteh motif in offset rows.
Underarm loops: on the exterior, as with the facing but backed with bias cut blue and white striped woollen fabric; both stripes carry small floral motifs.
Jacket, multi-pieced with some of the pieces placed/sewn upside down. The jacket has a large ovoid from opening, with a cross-over panel at the waist to hem level overlapping left over right, which originally fastened on the right waist side with a button; a grey 2-plied silk cord loop still remains. Inside, 2 long ties survive on the right inside flap and on the left inside seams; both are made from the printed cotton lining fabric. The garment is formed of one back panel with various shaped inserts down both side, back and front, and the sleeves, set at right angles to the main garment; seams on the shoulder panels. The sleeves are unseamed joining only at the underarm to the open gusset. A 7 cm fabric loop is sewn either side of the open seam at each elbow area. The cuffs are extended into a tiny point, centre top. All openings are faced, including the side hip slits [12 cm long]. The hip level inserts are triangular. The neckband is reinforced with the patterned silk.
Main silk: Dark blue satin ground with an offset pattern of a flowering plant with green leaves, surmounted by 2 confronting birds, with a small stylised motif between them and a larger fish [?] motif between the plants. The plant and birds are in silver metal thread with white silk flower centres and white or alternatively red wing details on the birds - all are outlined in pink.
Warp: dark blue silk, Z-twist
Weft: brown silk foundation weft; white, pink, light green, red and silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Part of a selvedge is visible and has bright green warp threads.
Facing: bias cut red plain weave silk with a fine yellow stripe.
Lining: dark blue glazed cotton with a small white feather or boteh motif in offset rows.
Underarm loops: on the exterior, as with the facing but backed with bias cut blue and white striped woollen fabric; both stripes carry small floral motifs.
Object details
Category | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | silk thread, cotton yarn, woollen yarn, metal thread, weaving, resist printing, roller printing, sewing. |
Brief description | woven silk, 1800s, Persian |
Physical description | Jacket, woven silk satin and metal thread, twill binding, faced with bias-cut plain weave silk, lined with glazed roller printed resist plain weave cotton, with woollen ties. Jacket, multi-pieced with some of the pieces placed/sewn upside down. The jacket has a large ovoid from opening, with a cross-over panel at the waist to hem level overlapping left over right, which originally fastened on the right waist side with a button; a grey 2-plied silk cord loop still remains. Inside, 2 long ties survive on the right inside flap and on the left inside seams; both are made from the printed cotton lining fabric. The garment is formed of one back panel with various shaped inserts down both side, back and front, and the sleeves, set at right angles to the main garment; seams on the shoulder panels. The sleeves are unseamed joining only at the underarm to the open gusset. A 7 cm fabric loop is sewn either side of the open seam at each elbow area. The cuffs are extended into a tiny point, centre top. All openings are faced, including the side hip slits [12 cm long]. The hip level inserts are triangular. The neckband is reinforced with the patterned silk. Main silk: Dark blue satin ground with an offset pattern of a flowering plant with green leaves, surmounted by 2 confronting birds, with a small stylised motif between them and a larger fish [?] motif between the plants. The plant and birds are in silver metal thread with white silk flower centres and white or alternatively red wing details on the birds - all are outlined in pink. Warp: dark blue silk, Z-twist Weft: brown silk foundation weft; white, pink, light green, red and silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core. Part of a selvedge is visible and has bright green warp threads. Facing: bias cut red plain weave silk with a fine yellow stripe. Lining: dark blue glazed cotton with a small white feather or boteh motif in offset rows. Underarm loops: on the exterior, as with the facing but backed with bias cut blue and white striped woollen fabric; both stripes carry small floral motifs. |
Dimensions |
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Production | The printed cotton lining may be British or Russian. |
Collection | |
Accession number | 954-1889 |
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Record created | April 8, 2008 |
Record URL |
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