Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in straight stitches and woven silk satin, trimmed with plain weave cotton and silk satin, lined with resist-dyed and block printed cotton and roller printed cotton.
The top section of the trousers is a patterned woven silk with another plain weave silk added to form the crotch, while the legs are formed from folded and seamed embroidered cotton, 'nakshe'.
Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in straight stitches. Directional design with the top of the pattern at the bottom of the panel, so that the wearer saw the correct pattern.
The main pattern is a series of diagonal lines from lower right to upper left. These are separated by a narrow line in very faded pink [now beige] decorated with small isolated blue and black stylised plants.. There are two types of stripes:
[1] blue ground, a thin black angular meander bearing stylised tulip forms in yellow and red with dark blue or green leaves.
[2] dark blue ground, a long straight black stem bearing leaves, buds and a large blossom in two shades of yellow, faded red and beige and green.
A narrow band has been added to the hem of both legs [possibly to increase the length][ and this is finished with a binding of plain weave black cotton. The embroidery silk is 2S.
The woven silk forming the body of the trousers has a dark blue satin ground, a series of two floral motifs arranged in offset rows: a curving plant form, contrasted with a flatter, bushier plant form outlined in yellow with green leaves and either light blue, faded pink or white flowers arranged to form diagonals of colours. At the top of one half of the waistband, which is integral to the fabric, a weft band of rectangles in faded pink with light blue details, against the dark blue ground - might this has been an inscription giving the weaver's name or workshop name?
Warp: dark blue silk
Weft: light blue silk with white, yellow, green and pink silk.
Crotch pieced but from the same fabric. Pink silk satin with offset rows of an isolated stylised plant form, bending left or right according to the row, twill binding, yellow flowers edged in brown with small green leaves. Along one seam is a line of reciprocal trefoils in yellow against the pink ground.
Lining: pieced, resist-printed heavy plain weave cotton. Dark red/black ground a series of small irregular circles in light pink hatched with red. Some sections have a selvedge of undecorated pink.
Inside the waistband, a small section of thin roller printed cotton with a greenish-brown ground patterned with a thin curving yellow flowering stalk [this could be European].