Jacket
1800-1860 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Jacket of voided silk velvet and metal thread, lined with resist printed and block printed plain weave glazed cotton and trimmed with tablet woven silk and metal thread bands.
The jacket has half-length sleeves. The seam under the arm is open and forms a diamond-shaped opening. There is a curving, flaring side panel over the hip which is not seamed, but hangs open. There is a centre front opening at the neckline is high at the back and forms a deep oval at the front. There is one disc-shaped yellow metal button on a length of black thread on the lower right hand side of the opening and a black thread loop on the opposite side. There is an interlining of unbleached plain weave cotton. The velvet has been pieced many times, especially on the back along the lower part of the sleeves and down the sides. It is seamed across the shoulders. It has a voided white ground originally woven with an additional weft of silver strip. Cut red silk pile outlines cloud-like zigzagged bands linked to form a lattice. It is probable that the metal thread was allowed to float on the back to form rounded shapes within these bands containing no metal. In each of the oval compartments is a red pile ground with a yellow lobed field on which is a light blue rose and buds on red stems.
The openings are trimmed with a tablet-woven band of silk and metal thread with three narrow chevron stripes and one edge along which the weft has been bunched and bound with metal thread to form a decorative finish. The colours are pink, white, yellow, black and a copper coloured metal strip wound around a silk core.
The lining is glazed red cotton block-printed with offset rows of a white sprig outlined in black with small white dots around it.
The jacket has half-length sleeves. The seam under the arm is open and forms a diamond-shaped opening. There is a curving, flaring side panel over the hip which is not seamed, but hangs open. There is a centre front opening at the neckline is high at the back and forms a deep oval at the front. There is one disc-shaped yellow metal button on a length of black thread on the lower right hand side of the opening and a black thread loop on the opposite side. There is an interlining of unbleached plain weave cotton. The velvet has been pieced many times, especially on the back along the lower part of the sleeves and down the sides. It is seamed across the shoulders. It has a voided white ground originally woven with an additional weft of silver strip. Cut red silk pile outlines cloud-like zigzagged bands linked to form a lattice. It is probable that the metal thread was allowed to float on the back to form rounded shapes within these bands containing no metal. In each of the oval compartments is a red pile ground with a yellow lobed field on which is a light blue rose and buds on red stems.
The openings are trimmed with a tablet-woven band of silk and metal thread with three narrow chevron stripes and one edge along which the weft has been bunched and bound with metal thread to form a decorative finish. The colours are pink, white, yellow, black and a copper coloured metal strip wound around a silk core.
The lining is glazed red cotton block-printed with offset rows of a white sprig outlined in black with small white dots around it.
Object details
Category | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silk thread, cotton yarn, metal thread, weaving, resist printing, block printing, sewing, tablet weaving |
Brief description | Middle East, Textile; velvet jacket, 1850c, Persian |
Physical description | Jacket of voided silk velvet and metal thread, lined with resist printed and block printed plain weave glazed cotton and trimmed with tablet woven silk and metal thread bands. The jacket has half-length sleeves. The seam under the arm is open and forms a diamond-shaped opening. There is a curving, flaring side panel over the hip which is not seamed, but hangs open. There is a centre front opening at the neckline is high at the back and forms a deep oval at the front. There is one disc-shaped yellow metal button on a length of black thread on the lower right hand side of the opening and a black thread loop on the opposite side. There is an interlining of unbleached plain weave cotton. The velvet has been pieced many times, especially on the back along the lower part of the sleeves and down the sides. It is seamed across the shoulders. It has a voided white ground originally woven with an additional weft of silver strip. Cut red silk pile outlines cloud-like zigzagged bands linked to form a lattice. It is probable that the metal thread was allowed to float on the back to form rounded shapes within these bands containing no metal. In each of the oval compartments is a red pile ground with a yellow lobed field on which is a light blue rose and buds on red stems. The openings are trimmed with a tablet-woven band of silk and metal thread with three narrow chevron stripes and one edge along which the weft has been bunched and bound with metal thread to form a decorative finish. The colours are pink, white, yellow, black and a copper coloured metal strip wound around a silk core. The lining is glazed red cotton block-printed with offset rows of a white sprig outlined in black with small white dots around it. |
Dimensions |
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Bibliographic reference | Illustrated in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker, V&A Publishing 2010, plate 19 pages 100 (whole) andn 101 (detail of velvet). |
Collection | |
Accession number | 40-1889 |
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Record created | April 8, 2008 |
Record URL |
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