Not currently on display at the V&A

Bathing Costume

1945 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Supported by the relative affluence of the British middle class and increase in foreign travel, the market for sportswear and beachwear grew rapidly from the 1930s. This unadorned bathing costume was manufactured by the British firm Shepherd during the Second World War. It is an example of design under Britain's Utility Scheme. Introduced by the Board of Trade in 1941-2, the Utility scheme encompassed a wide range of objects including clothing, hosiery, gloves, furs, footwear, household textiles, bedding and furniture. The scheme's well recognised CC 41 mark came from the initials for 'civilian clothing' and indicated the date of its first use. The package of administrative measures not only established restrictions on the production and consumption of cloth and men's and women's clothing, but also regulated the style of clothing.

Particularly in women’s fashion, after the Utility scheme was introduced garments became closer-fitting and shorter in an attempt to save material. Extraneous elements such as embroidery and garment linings were restricted. The scheme’s larger aims were to simplify design by setting quality and sizing standards. In a 1944 media briefing, The Board of Trade claimed that: ‘The Utility mark is … a guarantee to the public … which has become the widest known official “trade mark” ever introduced.’

This swimsuit, in its complete lack of ornament or hint of high style, is an example of the Utility scheme's functional, economical designs for the essential objects of daily life. There were disputes between the Board of Trade and retailers over what was meant by 'essential'. As some might see swimwear as expendable, surviving Utility examples are particularly significant.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Knitted wool
Brief description
Woven wool bathing costume, Utility, 1945, Britain
Physical description
Navy blue knitted wool bathing costume with thin shoulder straps and a scooped neck.
Dimensions
  • Length: 81cm
  • Bust circumference: 68cm
  • Waist circumference: 62.4cm
Production typeMass produced
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Shepherd / Regd. / Pure Wool / British Make / 38' (manufacturer's label)
  • CC41 (Utility scheme mark)
Credit line
Given by Dr Margaret Bennett
Object history
Historical significance: There were disputes between the Board of Trade and retailers over what was meant by 'essential', since it was suggested that only 'essential' items were produced under the scheme.
Thus Utility swimwear is a particularly interesting and potentially controversial category.
Summary
Supported by the relative affluence of the British middle class and increase in foreign travel, the market for sportswear and beachwear grew rapidly from the 1930s. This unadorned bathing costume was manufactured by the British firm Shepherd during the Second World War. It is an example of design under Britain's Utility Scheme. Introduced by the Board of Trade in 1941-2, the Utility scheme encompassed a wide range of objects including clothing, hosiery, gloves, furs, footwear, household textiles, bedding and furniture. The scheme's well recognised CC 41 mark came from the initials for 'civilian clothing' and indicated the date of its first use. The package of administrative measures not only established restrictions on the production and consumption of cloth and men's and women's clothing, but also regulated the style of clothing.

Particularly in women’s fashion, after the Utility scheme was introduced garments became closer-fitting and shorter in an attempt to save material. Extraneous elements such as embroidery and garment linings were restricted. The scheme’s larger aims were to simplify design by setting quality and sizing standards. In a 1944 media briefing, The Board of Trade claimed that: ‘The Utility mark is … a guarantee to the public … which has become the widest known official “trade mark” ever introduced.’

This swimsuit, in its complete lack of ornament or hint of high style, is an example of the Utility scheme's functional, economical designs for the essential objects of daily life. There were disputes between the Board of Trade and retailers over what was meant by 'essential'. As some might see swimwear as expendable, surviving Utility examples are particularly significant.
Collection
Accession number
T.38-2008

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Record createdApril 3, 2008
Record URL
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