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Not currently on display at the V&A

Man's Suit
2018 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This pink man’s suit is a contemporary interpretation of a traditional formal attire for men, known as the ‘Zhongshan suit.' It comes from PRONOUNCE AW 2018 menswear collection that was presented at London Fashion Week in January 2018. PRONOUNCE is a Chinese fashion brand, established by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou in 2016.

The 'Zhongshansuit' is a two-piece tunic suit named after Dr Sun Zhongshan (also known as Sun Yat-sen). The Chinese refers him as the Father of the Republic of modern China (1912-1949). He introduced a new outfit, based on Prussian military dress to be the official dress for civil servants in the 1910s. The jacket has a fold-over collar and four flap-patch pockets said to symbolise the Four Virtues − propriety, justice, honesty and shame. The suit was made of grey wool cloth, a non-traditional material for Chinese clothing.

The minimalist design of the 'Zhongshan suit' appeals to the designers who see it as the best sartorial symbol for Chinese men. Their works also challenge the notion of male and female stereotypes for their belief that gender is an outmoded concept. For this suit they restyle the grey colour of the original 'Zhongshan suit' with pink, a colour that is generally associated with femininity, by subverting masculine stereotypes for a 'gender-fluid generation.'

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Discover more about this object
read In the pink: colour in menswear For centuries, colour in men's clothing has been a means for both imposing conformity, or expressing individuality. The associations of colour have changed over time – In the 1700s European men wore pink, for example, as a sign of wealth and power, rather than gender. Today the spectrum of...

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
  • Belt
Title
Materials and techniques
Merino wool, cotton, regenerated cellulose fibre, plastic, stainless-steel
Brief description
Man's suit (Zhongshan suit), pink merino wool, designed by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, PRONOUNCE Autumn/Winter 2018 Menswear collection, made in Shanghai, China, 2018
Physical description
This man’s suit is made of pink merino wool, comprising a jacket, a pair of trousers and a belt. Size: Medium.

The jacket is lined with beige cotton. It has a front opening buttoned up close to the neck, a turn down collar fastened by a stainless-steel hook and eye, four front pockets embellished with white topstitching − two flap pockets above and two welt pockets below, shoulder pads and long sleeves with 3 buttonholes on the plackets. Sleeves are lined with regenerated cellulose fabric.

This pair of trousers has two knee patches, a waistband with a button and loop fastening and a black metal zip on the front, two buttons and a loop on either side of the waist for adjustment, and two side seam pockets with cotton lining.

The belt has white topstitching, two buttons, and a large stainless-steel hook on one end.
Dimensions
  • Front panel length: 82.5cm (Note: jacket)
  • Sleeve length: 63cm (Note: jacket)
  • Neck to shoulder width: 15.5cm (Note: jacket)
  • Collar height: 6.5cm (Note: jacket)
  • Belt height: 6cm
  • Belt length: 147cm
  • Waist length: 85cm (Note: trousers)
  • Trousers length: 99cm
Production typeLimited edition
Credit line
Given by PRONOUNCE (Yushan Li and Jun Zhou)
Object history
This pink woollen man’s suit comes from PRONOUNCE Autumn/ Winter 2018 Menswear collection, first presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week in January 2018.
Summary
This pink man’s suit is a contemporary interpretation of a traditional formal attire for men, known as the ‘Zhongshan suit.' It comes from PRONOUNCE AW 2018 menswear collection that was presented at London Fashion Week in January 2018. PRONOUNCE is a Chinese fashion brand, established by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou in 2016.

The 'Zhongshansuit' is a two-piece tunic suit named after Dr Sun Zhongshan (also known as Sun Yat-sen). The Chinese refers him as the Father of the Republic of modern China (1912-1949). He introduced a new outfit, based on Prussian military dress to be the official dress for civil servants in the 1910s. The jacket has a fold-over collar and four flap-patch pockets said to symbolise the Four Virtues − propriety, justice, honesty and shame. The suit was made of grey wool cloth, a non-traditional material for Chinese clothing.

The minimalist design of the 'Zhongshan suit' appeals to the designers who see it as the best sartorial symbol for Chinese men. Their works also challenge the notion of male and female stereotypes for their belief that gender is an outmoded concept. For this suit they restyle the grey colour of the original 'Zhongshan suit' with pink, a colour that is generally associated with femininity, by subverting masculine stereotypes for a 'gender-fluid generation.'
Associated object
FE.54-2021 (Accessory)
Collection
Accession number
FE.53:1 to 3-2021

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Record createdOctober 22, 2019
Record URL
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