Flower-shaped knot buttons (huaniu) were a popular choice for embellishing qipao. On this black satin dress, three buttons in the shape of five-petalled flowers, made from padded pink silk and outlined in strips of black satin, were specially designed to complement the delicate floral embroidery pattern and colour of the fabric.
The garment was made by GUO XU, a Shanghai-based brand specialising in bespoke qipao. Founded by Guo Yujin (b. 1970) and Xu Yulin (b. 1973) in 2002, the company's designs combine modern fashion silhouettes with traditional Chinese embroideries. Unlike other qipao, which are cut on the grainline, this dress is cut on the bias (at a 45° angle), allowing the fabric to hang more gracefully on the body.
The floral design was inspired by the story of the ‘Heavenly Maiden Scattering Flowers,’ from the Buddhist Vimalakirti Sutra. The birth of the Buddha was also said to be accompanied by a rain of flowers. The design was crafted by GUO XU’s in-house embroiderers in the style of Suzhou embroidery, characterised by naturalistic and soft colours. Here, the designers opted for more monochromatic tones and pastel colours to evoke a sense of grace and femininity.