This qipao is made from black silk gauze patterned with floral motifs, and lined with turquoise silk. It is fastened with nine loop-and-bead buttons. The borders are edged with black bias-cut satin and turquoise piping, with a broad ruyi-shaped satin band applied around the shoulder and the overlap flap on the right. The band is embroidered with butterflies flitting amidst chrysanthemum blossoms, an auspicious design known as ‘butterfly in love with flowers.’ The design is inspired by embroidery seen on many pleated skirts and edgings of Han’s women garments of the late 19th and early 20th century.
Here, each butterfly has additional wings stitched to the body, creating a three-dimensional effect, so that the butterflies appear to be flapping their wings. These extra wings incorporate double-faced embroidery of various geometric patterns, and are the work of Suzhou embroiderers, who use the distinctive technique of wielding two needles in mirror movements. The secret behind this unique method lies in the makers' skill in hiding all the loose threads and knots, which results in embroidery that appears equally well finished on both sides.