Brooch thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Brooch

1400-1450
Place of origin

Brooches were worn throughout the medieval period. Ring-brooches were the most widely used type and survive most commonly, as before the widespread use of buttons, they were necessary to fasten garments. From the beginning of the fifteenth century onwards however, goldsmiths began to make brooches in much more elaborate and three-dimensional forms. These brooches were often set with gems or pearls, and coloured using the en ronde bosse enamelling technique, but very few examples of this sort have survived.

The spinel and diamonds set in this gold brooch indicate the taste and wealth of the brooch's owner but would also have held a greater significance. Diamonds were highly valued because their hardness and lustre surpassed that of any other gemstone. The two surviving diamonds in this brooch are still in their natural octahedral form, polished but not faceted. The square collets in which they are set follow the form of the crystal and exaggerate the size of the gem. The central spinel has been polished to improve its surface lustre and remove imperfections but is also not faceted. It was originally set over a tinted metal foil which would have made it appear a richer colour. The three gold rods around the edges of the jewel are set over concave cusped gold. We believe that two pearls were originally threaded onto the rods above these cusped spaces. As pearls are organic, they would have deteriorated in the soil and been lost.

Medieval texts known as lapidaries list the properties associated with gemstones. Diamonds were linked to strength and eternity due to the belief that they could not be broken or destroyed, red stones such as spinels and rubies symbolized passion but were also associated with good health and pearls were associated with purity. Jewels such as this brooch therefore served to protect and support the wearer as well as add a fashionable note to their clothing.

Jewellery, especially rings and brooches, was a popular gift between lovers and friends. John Heywood's 'Playe called the Four PP' of 1544 lists items vital for those who 'love would win', including 'brooches, rings and all manner of beads'. Brooches were worn by both men and women, used to pin gowns together, or set on the shoulder attaching strings of pearls as seen in the portrait of Bianca Maria Visconti, Duchess of Milan (Milan, Pinacoteca di Brera) or sometimes pinned to a hat or cap.

This brooch was found in the ground near Brigstock, formerly part of an enormous area set aside as a royal forest. Northamptonshire was a particularly good place for deer hunting and many of its forests were covered by 'forest law' which restricted hunting of boar and venison (red deer and fallow deer) to the monarch, his or her hunting party and high ranking persons given a special dispensation to do so. Landowners were also permitted to create their own private deer parks on payment of a substantial amount to the Crown. Two deer parks were created in the manor of Brigstock in the early 13th century - the Great Park and Little Park, close to the findspot of this brooch. Deer hunting was a fashionable courtly pursuit - the hunting party might include the monarch and a large and brightly dressed retinue. Surviving tapestries often show hunting, depicted as an occasion for sport, but also an opportunity for flirtation and romance.



Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Enamelled gold set with a cabochon spinel and two point-cut diamonds.
Brief description
Gold brooch set with a central cabochon spinel and two point-cut diamonds on a foliate back plate. Europe, mid 15th century.
Physical description
Sexfoil gold back plate to which are attached settings for three point-cut octahedral diamonds (one now missing) separated by three gold rods in a triangular arrangement. The diamonds are set in square bezels with a rubover setting. Each diamond is surrounded by four curled gold petals which have been enamelled in white.

Each gold rod is set over two cusped settings which may originally have supported pearls.

The centre of the jewel is a polished, irregular cabochon spinel, held with four gold claws and set over the remains of a tinted foil. The stone is surrounded by twists of gold wire, many of which have remains of white enamel at the tips.

The back plate of the brooch is divided into six triangular sections around a central rivet which is the fixing for the spinel. Each section has a rivet which is the fixing for the diamonds and gold bars. The pin is held by a hinged fitting. The pin is intact but severely distorted.

Non-destructive X-ray fluorescence analysis carried out at the Department of Scientific Research at the British Museum indicates a surface composition of approximately 80-83% gold, 10-11% silver and 6-10% copper.
Dimensions
  • Length: 23.63mm
  • Width: 22.71mm
  • Depth: 16.81mm
  • Weight: 16.60g
Credit line
Purchased with the assistance of the Hildburgh Fund, and William & Judith, Douglas and James Bollinger
Object history
The brooch was found on 10 June 2017 by a metal detectorist working with a group in the vicinity of Brigstock, Northamptonshire in an area formerly known as the Great Park (a royal deer park). It was reported to the Finds Liaison Officer, in accordance with the Treasure Act, and recorded on the Portable Antiquities Database as WMID-D2BDA7. It was purchased by the V&A in October 2019.

The brooch is similar in style and form to a group of brooches catalogued by R. Lightbown, Medieval European Jewellery, (London, 1992) as 15th century (pp. 177-178). These include two brooches at the British Museum, recorded as having been discovered in the river Meuse (AF. 2768 and AF. 2769), one at Osnabrück and one at the Kunstgewerbemuseum, Berlin. Lightbown catalogued these all as German or Burgundian. To this can be added an additional example at the British Museum (AF.2670) and one at the Metropolitan Museum of Art which is catalogued as French, mid-15th century (57.26.1). These all display similar elements of foliate, curling back plates and a three-dimensional design formed of high set gems and petals.

The analysis carried out when the brooch was originally examined suggested that the central stone was a ruby, however, further examination and reassessment of the Raman data indicates that it is in fact a spinel (often known as a balas ruby). Medieval jewellery set with red stones characteristically uses spinels.
Association
Summary
Brooches were worn throughout the medieval period. Ring-brooches were the most widely used type and survive most commonly, as before the widespread use of buttons, they were necessary to fasten garments. From the beginning of the fifteenth century onwards however, goldsmiths began to make brooches in much more elaborate and three-dimensional forms. These brooches were often set with gems or pearls, and coloured using the en ronde bosse enamelling technique, but very few examples of this sort have survived.

The spinel and diamonds set in this gold brooch indicate the taste and wealth of the brooch's owner but would also have held a greater significance. Diamonds were highly valued because their hardness and lustre surpassed that of any other gemstone. The two surviving diamonds in this brooch are still in their natural octahedral form, polished but not faceted. The square collets in which they are set follow the form of the crystal and exaggerate the size of the gem. The central spinel has been polished to improve its surface lustre and remove imperfections but is also not faceted. It was originally set over a tinted metal foil which would have made it appear a richer colour. The three gold rods around the edges of the jewel are set over concave cusped gold. We believe that two pearls were originally threaded onto the rods above these cusped spaces. As pearls are organic, they would have deteriorated in the soil and been lost.

Medieval texts known as lapidaries list the properties associated with gemstones. Diamonds were linked to strength and eternity due to the belief that they could not be broken or destroyed, red stones such as spinels and rubies symbolized passion but were also associated with good health and pearls were associated with purity. Jewels such as this brooch therefore served to protect and support the wearer as well as add a fashionable note to their clothing.

Jewellery, especially rings and brooches, was a popular gift between lovers and friends. John Heywood's 'Playe called the Four PP' of 1544 lists items vital for those who 'love would win', including 'brooches, rings and all manner of beads'. Brooches were worn by both men and women, used to pin gowns together, or set on the shoulder attaching strings of pearls as seen in the portrait of Bianca Maria Visconti, Duchess of Milan (Milan, Pinacoteca di Brera) or sometimes pinned to a hat or cap.

This brooch was found in the ground near Brigstock, formerly part of an enormous area set aside as a royal forest. Northamptonshire was a particularly good place for deer hunting and many of its forests were covered by 'forest law' which restricted hunting of boar and venison (red deer and fallow deer) to the monarch, his or her hunting party and high ranking persons given a special dispensation to do so. Landowners were also permitted to create their own private deer parks on payment of a substantial amount to the Crown. Two deer parks were created in the manor of Brigstock in the early 13th century - the Great Park and Little Park, close to the findspot of this brooch. Deer hunting was a fashionable courtly pursuit - the hunting party might include the monarch and a large and brightly dressed retinue. Surviving tapestries often show hunting, depicted as an occasion for sport, but also an opportunity for flirtation and romance.

Bibliographic references
  • Allnatt, V (2017) WMID-D2BDA7: A POST MEDIEVAL BROOCH Web page available at: https://finds.org.uk/database/artefacts/record/id/853991 [Accessed: 6 Nov 2019 11:43:45]
  • Lightbown, Ronald; Medieval European Jewellery, London, 1992
Collection
Accession number
M.1-2020

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Record createdSeptember 18, 2019
Record URL
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