Not on display

We don’t have an image of this object online yet.

More about images

V&A Images may have a photograph that we can’t show online, but it may be possible to supply one to you. Email us at vaimages@vam.ac.uk for guidance about fees and timescales, quoting the accession number: T.30:1, 2-2019

Cocktail Dress

1952-4
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Christian Dior founded his Parisian fashion house in 1946, with backing from the textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. On 12 February 1947, the House of Dior launched its first collection. Dubbed the ‘New Look’ by the press, the collection had an instant and unparalleled influence on fashion around the world.

Following the success of his haute couture house in Paris, in 1952 Christian Dior set up a London-based company, C. D. Models (London) Ltd., to sell high-end ready-to-wear versions of his designs to the British public. Originally based in Stratford Place with workrooms in Maddox Street, the first collection of the London branch of Dior was launched at the Savoy Hotel on 10th December 1952. The London collection was based on the Paris haute couture collections but modified for a British clientele. C. D. Models (London) Ltd. changed its name to Christian Dior London Ltd. in December 1954 to coincide with a restructuring of management, giving the Paris company greater control.

This dress was later part of Peter Farrer's collection of vintage and historic dress and textiles. Peter Farrer (1926- 2017) was a senior tax inspector and cross-dresser who collected historic and twentieth-century women's fashion. He was the author of several books on cross-dressing and the subject of the 2017 exhibition Transformation: One Man's Cross-Dressing Wardrobe held at the Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool and curated by Pauline Rushton. He favoured black taffeta in particular. Farrer purchased this dress at an auction of costume and textiles at Sotheby's Belgravia in November 1981.

Object details

Category
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Bodice
  • Skirt
Materials and techniques
Brief description
Cocktail dress comprising of a separate bodice and skirt, black taffeta brocade with res and green roses, designed by Christian Dior, made by C. D. Models (London) Ltd., London, 1952-4
Physical description
A cocktail ensemble consisting of a separate bodice and skirt. The bodice has a cross-over neckline and a metal zip fastening to the back. Inside the bodice has a tacked-in corset at the waist made of two layers of net and eight flat plastic bones, with book and eye fastenings. There is a mix of hand and machine stitching. The skirt is made from three widths of fabric, sewn selvedge-to-selvedge, each measuring 90cm (36"), with are gathered into pleats at the waist. There is an integral net petticoat. The skirt appears to have been altered at some point, probably taken down to make the skirt longer, and the hem is unfinished.
Production typeReady to wear
Object history
Christian Dior founded his Parisian fashion house in 1946, with backing from the textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. On 12 February 1947, the House of Dior launched its first collection. Dubbed the ‘New Look’ by the press, the collection had an instant and unparalleled influence on fashion around the world.

Following the success of his haute couture house in Paris, in 1952 Christian Dior set up a London-based company, C. D. Models (London) Ltd., to sell high-end ready-to-wear versions of his designs to the British public. Originally based in Stratford Place with workrooms in Maddox Street, the first collection of the London branch of Dior was launched at the Savoy Hotel on 10th December 1952. The London collection was based on the Paris haute couture collections but modified for a British clientele. C. D. Models (London) Ltd. changed its name to Christian Dior London Ltd. in December 1954 to coincide with a restructuring of management, giving the Paris company greater control.

This dress was later part of Peter Farrer's collection of vintage and historic dress and textiles. Peter Farrer (1926-2017) was a senior tax inspector and cross-dresser who collected historic and twentieth-century women's fashion. He was the author of several books on cross-dressing and the subject of the 2017 exhibition <i>Transformation: One Man's Cross-Dressing Wardrobe</i> held at the Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool and curated by Pauline Rushton. He favoured black taffeta in particular. Farrer purchased this dress at an auction of costume and textiles at Sotheby's Belgravia in November 1981.
Summary
Christian Dior founded his Parisian fashion house in 1946, with backing from the textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. On 12 February 1947, the House of Dior launched its first collection. Dubbed the ‘New Look’ by the press, the collection had an instant and unparalleled influence on fashion around the world.

Following the success of his haute couture house in Paris, in 1952 Christian Dior set up a London-based company, C. D. Models (London) Ltd., to sell high-end ready-to-wear versions of his designs to the British public. Originally based in Stratford Place with workrooms in Maddox Street, the first collection of the London branch of Dior was launched at the Savoy Hotel on 10th December 1952. The London collection was based on the Paris haute couture collections but modified for a British clientele. C. D. Models (London) Ltd. changed its name to Christian Dior London Ltd. in December 1954 to coincide with a restructuring of management, giving the Paris company greater control.

This dress was later part of Peter Farrer's collection of vintage and historic dress and textiles. Peter Farrer (1926- 2017) was a senior tax inspector and cross-dresser who collected historic and twentieth-century women's fashion. He was the author of several books on cross-dressing and the subject of the 2017 exhibition Transformation: One Man's Cross-Dressing Wardrobe held at the Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool and curated by Pauline Rushton. He favoured black taffeta in particular. Farrer purchased this dress at an auction of costume and textiles at Sotheby's Belgravia in November 1981.
Collection
Accession number
T.30:1, 2-2019

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJune 11, 2019
Record URL
Download as: JSON