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Opera Costume

Opera Costume
1974 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Armour for Juno, in eight parts, worn in Monteverdi's opera Il Ritorno d’Ulisse in Patria at Glyndebourne Opera House, first staged in 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000).


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 8 parts.
(Some alternative part names are also shown below)
  • Opera Costume
  • Hat
  • Opera Costume
  • Breastplate
  • Opera Costume
  • Arm Piece
  • Opera Costume
  • Arm Piece
  • Opera Costume
  • Cuff
  • Opera Costume
  • Belt
  • Opera Costume
  • Leg Piece
  • Opera Costume
  • Leg Piece
TitleOpera Costume (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Leather; plastic; metal; wool; felt; paint; braid
Brief description
Armour for Juno, in eight parts, worn in Monteverdi's opera Il Ritorno d’Ulisse in Patria at Glyndebourne Opera House, first staged in 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000)
Physical description
Armour for Juno, in eight parts, worn in Il Ritorno d’Ulisse in Patria at Glyndebourne Opera House. Designed by John Bury.

S.219:1-2019

Oval shaped gold faux leather hat. The hat has a round domed crown and a wide oval brim which is slightly upturned at the edge. It is largely plain, but curved lines of gold metallic braid have been used to edge the brim and run in a cross shaped pattern over the crown. The underside of the hat is decorated with hexagonal metal studs positioned in concentric circles from the edge of the brim to the centre. The interior of the crown is edged with dull gold Petersham ribbon and lined with pale lemon coloured polyester.

S.219:2-2019

Breastplate with integral knitted orange sleeves and gold-plated detailing across the chest and arms. The breastplate has a rough beige cotton ground with a wide tightly woven cream band (some 7cm in width) running around the base. The cotton ground is masked by layered curved panels of stiff felt covered with strips of gold metal. There is also a semi-circular gold collar with a narrow band of gold leather[?] edging the interior of the neckline.
Sleeves, knitted from pale orange wool [?] and painted with gold metallic paint are stitched to the beige cotton ground. These sleeves are encased within further armour which is formed from interlinked curved gold metal discs and has wider curved bands of papier-mâché to accommodate the elbow. This section of the armour has a much more solid frame, which is strengthened with narrow strips of metal from the shoulder to the elbow joint. A 12cm zip has been set into the cuffs of the sleeves, creating fullness at the wrist.
The breastplate is secured at the centre back with a vertical row of 4 hooks and bars and with two further large hooks and bars (and press studs) at the centre back of the waistband. There are further hooks at the shoulder line to secure the collar.


S.219:3&4-2019

A pair of arm pieces, the shape of which suggests they were probably worn on the upper arm. The arm pieces are formed from four interlinked, but flexible, curved plates of gold metal, which are joined together with brass clips. The interior is not lined.

S.219:5-2019

Single piece of gold armour, possibly for the upper arm. This curved section of armour is formed from three interlinked panels, the external edge covered with gold metal. Two black elastic straps have been attached to the interior (possibly to secure the armour in place when worn).

S.219:6-2019

Gold belt formed from sections of thick rough felt which are covered with thin panels of shining gold metal/plastic[?]. These overlapping panels are positioning in three sections, with narrow panels at the proper left and proper right side framing a wider panel at the centre front. They have been stitched to a pale beige cotton ground, which has a narrow band of white cotton tarlatan at the base. This fabric band is stiffened with 9 channels of boning. A stiff vertical band has been added at the proper left and proper right side edge, each marked with three metal eyelets. A length of orange cotton cord runs through the eyelets on the proper right edge. Two cotton tape loops are also present at the top edge.


S.219:7&8-2019

A pair of gold plated leg pieces encasing the upper leg from the knee to the top of the thigh and extending into a curved point at the top. The leg piece is formed from interlinked curved panels, each covered with a layer of gold metal, and the base is edged with a narrow band of silver leather.
The underside/interior of the leg pieces are faced with a deep blue wool felt and has a further vertical panel of beige cotton running down the centre. The leg pieces were secured to the wearer with three pairs of gold buckles and matching leather straps.

Dimensions
  • S.219 1 2019 (hat) height: 13.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 1 2019 (hat, widest point) diameter: 61cm (approximate)
  • S.219 1 2019 (hat, narrowest point) diameter: 49cm (approximate)
  • S.219 2 2019 (breastplate, cf neck to base, including waistband) length: 32.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 2 2019 (breastplate, cb neck to base, including waistband) length: 45cm (approximate)
  • S.219 2 2019 (breastplate, across the shoulders) width: 43cm (approximate)
  • S.219 2 2019 (breastplate, across the cb waist) width: 44cm (approximate)
  • S.219 3&4 2019 (left and right cuff, maximum cf) length: 17.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 3&4 2019 (left and right cuff, maximum cb) length: 14cm (approximate)
  • S.219 3 2019 (left cuff, maximum across top) width: 10cm (approximate)
  • S.219 3 2019 (left cuff, maximum across base) width: 9cm (approximate)
  • S.219 4 2019 (left cuff, maximum across top) width: 9cm (approximate)
  • S.219 4 2019 (right cuff, maximum across base) width: 9.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 5 2019 (single cuff, maximum) length: 17.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 5 2019 (single cuff, maximum) width: 12.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 6 2019 (belt, centre front, maximum) length: 12.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 6 2019 (belt, rear, maximum) length: 12cm (approximate)
  • S.219 6 2019 (belt, edge to edge) width: 69.5cm (approximate)
  • S.219 7 2019 (left leg piece, front, maximum) length: 40cm (approximate)
  • S.219 7 2019 (left leg piece, rear, maximum) length: 30cm (approximate)
  • S.219 7 2019 (left leg piece, across top, maximum) width: 15cm (approximate)
  • S.219 7 2019 (left leg piece, across base, maximum) width: 10cm (approximate)
  • S.219 8 2019 (right leg piece, front, maximum) length: 40cm (approximate)
  • S.219 8 2019 (right leg piece, rear, maximum) length: 31cm (approximate)
  • S.219 8 2019 (right leg piece, across top, maximum) width: 16cm (approximate)
  • S.219 8 2019 (right leg piece, across base, maximum) width: 11cm (approximate)
Marks and inscriptions
S.219:1-2018 A maker’s label at the interior reads: MADE BY PATRICIA POPE (typed black text) Name: VIVIEN TOWNLEY ULISSE (handwritten annotation in black ink) S.219:2-2018 A production label is present at the centre front interior of the breastplate. This reads: GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA PRODUCTION: ULISSE ACT: - SCENE: - The letters ‘GAULD’ has been added to the proper left rear of the waistband in blue biro. S.219:3-2018 Left Cuff: ‘TOP LEFT/JUNO LEFT’ Handwritten annotation in black ink at interior of arm piece. S.219:4-2018 Right Cuff: ‘TOP RIGHT’ Handwritten annotation in red ink at interior of arm piece. S.219:5-2018 ‘W.A. [?] T’ ‘2 L [illegible]’ Handwritten annotation in black ink at interior of arm piece. S.219:6-2018 A production label at the underside of the belt is marked: GLYNDEBOURNE/GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA/PRODUCTION: ‘ULISSE’/ACT-, SCENE-/Character: JUNO/Name: MISS. C. POWELL/FESTIVAL OPERA S.219:7-2018 Left: ‘LEFT/J’ (Handwritten annotation in black ink) S.219:8-2018 Right: ‘RIGHT/JOVE’ (Handwritten annotation in black ink) (Handwritten annotation and production labels added to the interior of the objects.)
Credit line
Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd
Summary
Armour for Juno, in eight parts, worn in Monteverdi's opera Il Ritorno d’Ulisse in Patria at Glyndebourne Opera House, first staged in 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000).
Collection
Accession number
S.219:1 to 8-2018

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Record createdMarch 6, 2019
Record URL
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