Costume consisting of a white bodice and skirt, decorated with fabric flowers. Worn by Barbara Hendricks as Calisto in Cavalli's opera La Calisto at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000)

S.218:1-2018

Short white bodice with fine elbow length sleeves and a low round neckline and extending into a point at the centre front. The bodice fits closely to the body and is stiffened with vertical channels of boning at the front and centre back.

It has a white cotton ground, with darker panels of fabric used at the bust. The ground fabric has been overlaid with pleated panels of fine white muslin [?] and small fabric flowers, interlinked with couched lines of pale green braid, have been used to decorate the neckline and bust. The same decorative flowers have been used to add detail to the upper part of the sleeves. These finish just below the elbow in open cuffs which extent into a deep point at the rear.

A band of white and gold braid runs from the rear of the proper right shoulder diagonally towards the proper left hip, where it is gathered in a hanging ‘bow.’ With the exception of the braid detailing, the rear of the bodice is largely plain. There is a small white button at the proper right rear shoulder (possibly to secure to a cloak or cape).

The bodice fastens at the centre back with a vertical row of fourteen metal hooks and eyes. It is not lined, but significant padding has been added at the interior bust line. This rear fastening is masked by an asymmetrical floating panel, which is secured with a hook at the rear of the proper right waist.

Seven elastic loops, with a central button hole are spaced evenly around the interior waist and mark the points at which the bodice can be button to the skirt.



S.218:2-2018

Three quarter length tiered, fine white cotton muslin [?] skirt. The skirt has a shorter, heavier weight cotton inner skirt, the hem of which has been finished with an uneven, ‘zigzag’ style edge. The upper (and outer) skirt is formed from three layers of translucent, light weight muslin[?]. The longest layer (at the base) is 73cms in length, the shorter, central layer, 41cms long and the pleated upper skirt (which curves back from the centre front and is divided into two pleated semi-circular panels over the hips), being about 38cms long at the longest point.

Both the front and rear of the skirt are decorated with groups of white fabric flowers. These flow in diagonal lines from the proper right waist to the proper left thigh, before curving up round the rear of the skirt to meet at the centre back waist. A hanging length of gold metallic braid is suspended from the front waist, whilst, two lengths of fine muslin[?] hang softly from the centre back waist of the skirt, finishing just above the rear hem.

The skirt has a cream Petersham waistband (about 2.5cms wide) and fastens at the centre back waist with a pair of metal hooks and eyes. A further metal hook and eye secures the centre back vent (which is about 29.5cms deep).

The skirt also has an integral bustle, which is covered with cream calico and thickly padded. This is attached to the interior waist with lengths of cotton tape and is also buttoned to a length of elastic. Seven plastic buttons are evenly spaced around the exterior of the waistband, allowing the bodice to be secured to the skirt.

Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd

Costume consisting of a white bodice and skirt, decorated with fabric flowers. Worn by Barbara Hendricks as Calisto in Cavalli's opera La Calisto at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1974. Designed by John Bury (1925-2000).

S.218:1 to 2 -2018