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Opera Costume

Opera Costume
1975 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Costume consisting of dark olive green gown and matching petticoat, worn by Bozena Betley or Trudeliese Schmidt as Fiordiligi in Mozart's opera Cosi Fan Tutte at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1975 and 1976. Designed by Emanuele Luzzati (1921-2007).


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.
(Some alternative part names are also shown below)
  • Opera Costume
  • Dress
  • Gown
  • Opera Costume
  • Petticoat
TitleOpera Costume (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Silk; cotton; polyester; Petersham; metal fastenings; metal decorations, plastic
Brief description
Costume consisting of an open olive green gown and matching decorative petticoat, worn by Bozena Betley or Trudeliese Schmidt as Fiordiligi in Mozart's opera Cosi Fan Tutte at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1975 and 1976. Designed by Emanuele Luzzati (1921-2007)
Physical description
S.217:1-2018

Floor length olive green gown formed from a lightweight synthetic silk gauze style fabric. The bodice of the gown has a low round neckline which is edged with piping and extends into a soft round point at the centre front of the waistline (which is also edged with piping). It is stiffened with channels of boning and lined with cream cotton.

The elbow length sleeves fit closely to the upper arm, flaring out into a wide cuff at the elbow. These cuffs are formed from layers of stiffly pleated fabric in tones of green, blue and pale pink. They are gathered into two soft horizontal fabric tucks at the base of the sleeve and embellished with a pair of pale blue fabric flowers and a sage green ribbon bow.
The skirt of the gown is full and open at the front. It is not lined and the hem is finished with overlocked stitch and extends into a slight train at the rear.

The bodice fastens at the centre rear with laces running through 7 pairs of metal eyelets, with a further metal hook and eye at the centre back of the neckline. This fastening is masked by the false box pleat which hangs down the centre back of the gown and which is secured in place with small metal press studs positioned at the upper part of the bodice.


S.217:2-2018

Long, full, floor length petticoat extending into a slight train at the rear. The skirt has a very pale translucent grey ground dyed in tones of soft blue and yellow green. This lightweight outer-skirt rests on a stiffer cream polyester[?] underskirt.

The front part of the skirt is embellished with four vertical softly curved lines of flowers. These lines are of different lengths and joined together across the hem.

The flowers and leaves are formed from fabric and appliqued to the ground fabric. They have blue, white, and pale pink with yellow centres and sage green leaves. Further hand drawn leaves in blue crayon have been used to embellish the central design.

Dimensions
  • Gown, hanging weight: 1.3kg (approximate)
  • Gown shoulder to hem, front length: 145cm (approximate)
  • Gown shoulder to hem, rear length: 157cm (approximate)
  • Gown waist to hem length: 107cm (approximate)
  • Gown shoulder to front waist length: 39cm (approximate)
  • Gown shoulder to rear waist length: 47cm (approximate)
  • Gown across shoulders, front width: 39cm (approximate)
  • Gown across waist, front width: 38cm (approximate)
  • Petticoat hanging weight: 0.6kg (approximate)
  • Petticoat waist to hem, front length: 107cm (approximate)
  • Petticoat waist to hem, rear length: 116cm (approximate)
  • Petticoat across front waist width: 30cm (approximate)
  • Petticoat, interior waist. circumference: 74cm (approximate)
Marks and inscriptions
  • ‘GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA/PRODUCTION: Idomenio/ACT [BLANK] SCENE [BLANK]/CHARACTER: Electra/NAME: S.Friede’ (Dress; one at the interior of the sash marked. Printed text with handwritten annotation.)
  • ‘GLYNDEBOURNE OPERA/PRODUCTION: Idomenio/ACT [BLANK] SCENE [BLANK]/CHARACTER: Electra/NAME: S.Friede’ (Dress; centre back interior; printed text and handwritten annotation. )
Credit line
Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd
Summary
Costume consisting of dark olive green gown and matching petticoat, worn by Bozena Betley or Trudeliese Schmidt as Fiordiligi in Mozart's opera Cosi Fan Tutte at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1975 and 1976. Designed by Emanuele Luzzati (1921-2007).
Collection
Accession number
S.217:1 and 2 - 2018

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Record createdFebruary 19, 2019
Record URL
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