red silk satin embroidered with couched metal thread and with laid and couched silk thread, and silk thread in straight stitches, mainly satin stitch. There is an interlining of cotton canvas through which the embroidery has been worked, a layer of cotton fabric, a piece of leather, another layer of cotton fabric, a facing of woven silk and a backing of moire [watered] silk.
The construction can only be seen because part of the facing has been unpicked. The entire ground is covered with metal thread. In the centre is a diamond worked with silver thread. There is a 2-tiered red and pink rosette in the centre surrounded by a fine line linking four 5-pointed leaves and four circles each with 3 blue petals. There are small triangular leaves. Beyond this central diamond the ground is worked in 'gold' thread with a symmetrical design. There are 4 tear-drop compartments pointing outward. The edges are worked in 2 shades of green, the interior is silver and contains a single round flowers with red and pink petals and laid beige [?] silk couched with metal thread. There is a floral group between the tear drops in purple and silver flower head with yellow and pink details and two blue flowers and small leaves plus a circle of laid green silk couched with metal thread with three red and pink petals and a blue leaf. Fine twisted lines of metal thread outline and link all these elements. There is a narrow border round the edge with a fine meander of green leaves and red and pink flower heads.
Embroidery thread: silk; red, pink, dark blue, light blue, green, light green, purple [faded], yellow and beige; all 2Z.
Metal thread:
[1] very fine silver strip close S-wound on white silk;
[2] silver close S-wound on white silk [used for outlines]
[3] very fine silver-gilt strip close S-wound on white silk
Facing: bias cut weft faced silk with a small pattern of narrow dark green warp stripes and red and blue 'dashes'
Backing: green weft faced watered silk; pieced.