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Hanging

1810-1840 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Resht work, plain weave felted wool, patchwork, inlaid work, applique, embroidered with silk in a variety of stitches predominantly chain stitch with straight stitches and French knots and with metal thread and metal spangles.
The central panel depicts a standing female figure, full-length, on a pieced grey ground. She is holding a drinking glass in her left hand and a long-necked flask in her right hand. Her tunic is red and is decorated with white botehs with spangles. Under this there is a pale pink transparent blouse with hanging sleeves. This is embroidered over a layer of gauze. The skirt was applique using woollen fabric woven with a shawl design over a turquoise ground. Her shoes are black with red felt indicating henna on the soles of her feet. A wide variety of spangles have been used in quantity, decorating the headdress and accessories and indicating jewellery. There are also embroidered white dots possibly denoting pearls. There is a tattoo mark on her forehead and on her chin.
There are borders on three sides [not along the lower edge].
Inner border: black ground with a white embroidered meander bearing red rosettes, white pointed flowers, red, yellow and blue leaves.
Main border: red ground with a beautiful floral pattern: two white undulating stems with fronds and leaves in three shades of green. One stems bears a cluster of composite blossoms in two different arrangements. The other stem bears sprays of blue rounded flowers. Along the upper edge there are three medallions each containing a head and shoulder portrait. The medallion at each corner depicts a woman and the one in the centre depicts a turbaned male.
Outer border: darker red ground with a similar design to the inner border but with more embroidered detail.
Outermost border: on all four sides; undecorated purple.
The piecing was done before the embroidery was worked. Red and white cord and black and white cord cover the seams.
Embroidery thread: 2S silk, white, three shades of pink, red, blue, black, yellow, light yellow, light green, light blue, dark green, dark yellow, grey.
Metal thread: on the headdress, silver and silver-gilt strip close S-wound on light beige silk.
Inset wool: grey, turquoise, light turquoise, white, dark yellow [or orange], red, light and dark green, black, dark grey, dark red, purple, light blue, light beige.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
woollen yarn, metal thread, silk thread, weaving, patchwork, applied work, embroidering, sewing
Brief description
felted wool; patchwork, 1800-1840, Persian
Physical description
Resht work, plain weave felted wool, patchwork, inlaid work, applique, embroidered with silk in a variety of stitches predominantly chain stitch with straight stitches and French knots and with metal thread and metal spangles.
The central panel depicts a standing female figure, full-length, on a pieced grey ground. She is holding a drinking glass in her left hand and a long-necked flask in her right hand. Her tunic is red and is decorated with white botehs with spangles. Under this there is a pale pink transparent blouse with hanging sleeves. This is embroidered over a layer of gauze. The skirt was applique using woollen fabric woven with a shawl design over a turquoise ground. Her shoes are black with red felt indicating henna on the soles of her feet. A wide variety of spangles have been used in quantity, decorating the headdress and accessories and indicating jewellery. There are also embroidered white dots possibly denoting pearls. There is a tattoo mark on her forehead and on her chin.
There are borders on three sides [not along the lower edge].
Inner border: black ground with a white embroidered meander bearing red rosettes, white pointed flowers, red, yellow and blue leaves.
Main border: red ground with a beautiful floral pattern: two white undulating stems with fronds and leaves in three shades of green. One stems bears a cluster of composite blossoms in two different arrangements. The other stem bears sprays of blue rounded flowers. Along the upper edge there are three medallions each containing a head and shoulder portrait. The medallion at each corner depicts a woman and the one in the centre depicts a turbaned male.
Outer border: darker red ground with a similar design to the inner border but with more embroidered detail.
Outermost border: on all four sides; undecorated purple.
The piecing was done before the embroidery was worked. Red and white cord and black and white cord cover the seams.
Embroidery thread: 2S silk, white, three shades of pink, red, blue, black, yellow, light yellow, light green, light blue, dark green, dark yellow, grey.
Metal thread: on the headdress, silver and silver-gilt strip close S-wound on light beige silk.
Inset wool: grey, turquoise, light turquoise, white, dark yellow [or orange], red, light and dark green, black, dark grey, dark red, purple, light blue, light beige.
Dimensions
  • Length: 190cm
  • Width: 137cm
  • Central panel length: 135.5cm
  • Central panel width: 57.5cm
Bibliographic reference
Illustrated in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker, V&A Publishing 2010 fig. 46 page 64 (whole) and plate 75 pages 152 and 153 (details).
Collection
Accession number
947-1886

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Record createdMarch 11, 2008
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