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Jacket

1800-1880 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Short sleeved jacket of woven silk satin and metal thread, twill binding, with woollen twill facings and plain weave cotton lining, partially padded and quilted.
The fabric for the jacket is pieced; there are inserts at the back showing the pattern inverted. There is a long inverted conical opening at the front with reinforcement in the same patterned silk only at the back of the neck band. It has a small cross-over flap but no fastenings. The jacket is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulders with many variously shaped inserts, back and front, forming a definite hipped outline. The short sleeves are multi-pieced, set at right angles to the main panels, and seamed to form a tube through the underarm area is left open and partially faced to form three sides of a square.
There is evidence of padding and quilting along both hips.
Main Silk: dark blue satin patterned with large composite, offset botehs facing left in one row, right in the next. Each boteh is outlined by a red band filled with yellow and blue flowers framing a yellow flowering stem and on a dark blue ground. Small botehs are placed along the base line of each separate motif and a small boteh between each mid-way, while 2 flowering sprays emanate from the large boeteh's tip; their colouring echoes that of the main motif.
Warp: dark blue silk, Z-twist
Weft: brown silk, faded red silk, yellow silk which originally had silver strip open S-wound around it.
Facing: bias-cut red woollen twill.
Lining: heavy dark blue [indigo] plain weave cotton
829-1876 is made from a very similar woven silk fabric.

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, cotton yarn, woollen yarn, metal thread, weaving, dyeing, sewing, quilting
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1800s, Persian
Physical description
Short sleeved jacket of woven silk satin and metal thread, twill binding, with woollen twill facings and plain weave cotton lining, partially padded and quilted.
The fabric for the jacket is pieced; there are inserts at the back showing the pattern inverted. There is a long inverted conical opening at the front with reinforcement in the same patterned silk only at the back of the neck band. It has a small cross-over flap but no fastenings. The jacket is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulders with many variously shaped inserts, back and front, forming a definite hipped outline. The short sleeves are multi-pieced, set at right angles to the main panels, and seamed to form a tube through the underarm area is left open and partially faced to form three sides of a square.
There is evidence of padding and quilting along both hips.
Main Silk: dark blue satin patterned with large composite, offset botehs facing left in one row, right in the next. Each boteh is outlined by a red band filled with yellow and blue flowers framing a yellow flowering stem and on a dark blue ground. Small botehs are placed along the base line of each separate motif and a small boteh between each mid-way, while 2 flowering sprays emanate from the large boeteh's tip; their colouring echoes that of the main motif.
Warp: dark blue silk, Z-twist
Weft: brown silk, faded red silk, yellow silk which originally had silver strip open S-wound around it.
Facing: bias-cut red woollen twill.
Lining: heavy dark blue [indigo] plain weave cotton
829-1876 is made from a very similar woven silk fabric.
Dimensions
  • Length: 63cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 82.5cm
  • Hem circumference: 62.5cm
Collection
Accession number
290-1884

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Record createdMarch 11, 2008
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