Short sleeved jacket, woven silk satin and metal thread, twill binding, faced with woollen twill and plain weave silk, lined with two types of block and resist printed cotton, and a glazed roller printed cotton, with a plain weave cotton interlining.
Multi-pieced satin patterned with a lozenge lattice. The garment has an ovoid opening 49 cm deep with an overlap, a red silk thread button and remains of a mauve cord loop on the other side which is probably not original.
The jacket is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulders with small area of reinforcement at back neck band which includes small piece of different fabric: yellow silk plain weave with what may be copper strip carried as a supplementary weft and tufts of red and olive green silk - was this originally velvet?
The jacket has variously shaped inserts back and front and on the sleeves to form a hipped outlined [partially seamed through the facing] open for 15.5 cm from the hem. The short sleeves are open under the arm and linked to the open gusset, but joined with the last 16 cm by the same fabric cut into strips.
Main silk: dark green satin with small overall lozenge lattice pattern in twill formed of small coral pink roundels edged in silver wound around yellow silk, linked by a small rosette in the same colouring. Each lozenge contains a smaller silver lozenge decorated with coral pink details, which extends into 8 stylised leaf forms. One insert shows the loom end with 4 or 5 rows of coral pink and metal thread either side of 16 shoots of metal thread.
Warp: green silk, Z-twist
Weft: coral pink [faded]; silver strip open S-wound on a yellow silk core.
Facing: bias cut woollen twill; incomplete pattern: at least 2 fabrics but both are blue, white and brown stripes, each carrying decorative elements in linked colouring. Also black plain weave silk, bias-cut, on the open gussets.
Lining: pieced from several fabrics:
[1] main back and front: white plain weave block and resist printed cotton with dense overall patterning of diagonal slender black meander bearing spiky flowers in red with olive green leaves.
[2] back inserts both sides: plain weave block and resist printed cotton in similar colouring but more static design of long flowering stems.
[3] upper front sides: glazed white plain weave cotton roller printed with very small leaf motif in brown.
[4] sleeve lining: heavy, coarse unbleached plain weave cotton, unpatterned.
[5] lower lining: plain weave light brown cotton.