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Jacket

1800-1860 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jacket, woven plain weave silk and metal thread faced with bias cut plain weave silk and lined with block and resist printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced plain weave silk with a floating weft pattern, with only some of the back inserts and the [folded] sleeves on the back showing the pattern inverted. The jacket has a long inverted conically shaped opening [47 cm long], the neckband area being reinforced with the patterned silk. It has a cross-over panel at the waist to hem level [left over right] with two inside ties, and a wider exterior tie on the left flap and the right side, the latter made from the facing fabric while the former is a dark green plain weave cotton, and another of coarse mid-green cotton with a white resist pattern. The jacket is formed of one back panel, seamed at the shoulders, with variously shaped inserts down both sides, back and front, to form a hipped outline. The sleeves, set at right angles to the main garment, are unseamed, joining at the underarms to the open gusset. A rough, probably not original bundle of stitches in white cotton is at the elbow area on each sleeve. The centre cuff is extended to form tiny points at the centre. All openings are faced, including the hip side slits [21 cm long].
Main Silk: yellow and metal thread ground patterned with a left facing boteh consisting of one flowering shrub in green, pink, blue with brown outlines. A small right facing shrub motif separates the botehs at leaf level, a rosette at half way and a curving spray at the tip.
Warp: pink and yellow silk.
Weft: foundation = silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core; light green, blue, pink and brown silk.
At the shoulder seam there is evidence of a loom end, with rows of pink weft.
Facing: bias cut black plain weave silk
Lining: pieced plain weave cotton with yellow ground, block and resist printed with a flowering plant with serrated green leaves, pink, white flowers with yellow details, mostly outlined in black. Down to elbow area on the sleeves.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, metal thread, cotton yarn, weaving, sewing.
Brief description
woven silk, 1800s, Persian
Physical description
Jacket, woven plain weave silk and metal thread faced with bias cut plain weave silk and lined with block and resist printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced plain weave silk with a floating weft pattern, with only some of the back inserts and the [folded] sleeves on the back showing the pattern inverted. The jacket has a long inverted conically shaped opening [47 cm long], the neckband area being reinforced with the patterned silk. It has a cross-over panel at the waist to hem level [left over right] with two inside ties, and a wider exterior tie on the left flap and the right side, the latter made from the facing fabric while the former is a dark green plain weave cotton, and another of coarse mid-green cotton with a white resist pattern. The jacket is formed of one back panel, seamed at the shoulders, with variously shaped inserts down both sides, back and front, to form a hipped outline. The sleeves, set at right angles to the main garment, are unseamed, joining at the underarms to the open gusset. A rough, probably not original bundle of stitches in white cotton is at the elbow area on each sleeve. The centre cuff is extended to form tiny points at the centre. All openings are faced, including the hip side slits [21 cm long].
Main Silk: yellow and metal thread ground patterned with a left facing boteh consisting of one flowering shrub in green, pink, blue with brown outlines. A small right facing shrub motif separates the botehs at leaf level, a rosette at half way and a curving spray at the tip.
Warp: pink and yellow silk.
Weft: foundation = silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core; light green, blue, pink and brown silk.
At the shoulder seam there is evidence of a loom end, with rows of pink weft.
Facing: bias cut black plain weave silk
Lining: pieced plain weave cotton with yellow ground, block and resist printed with a flowering plant with serrated green leaves, pink, white flowers with yellow details, mostly outlined in black. Down to elbow area on the sleeves.
Dimensions
  • Length: 70cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 157cm
  • Hem circumference: 139cm
Marks and inscriptions
(ink inscription by the Museum Number 'iz35' and by the inside neck band there is a possible workshop identification mark.)
Bibliographic reference
Printed cotton lining published in 'Iranian Textiles' by Jennifer Wearden and Patricia L Baker (V&A Publishing, 2010) Plate 98.
Collection
Accession number
288-1884

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Record createdMarch 11, 2008
Record URL
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