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Not currently on display at the V&A

Textile Panel

1770-1800 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and cross stitch and pulled thread work, backed with plain weave cotton with a facing of silk satin and with an applied border of woven silk. There is a plain weave cotton inter-lining.
White silk has been used to overcast a pulled thread ground around two motifs in alternate rows:
[1] A faded pink octagon infilled with a light blue eight-pointed star, alternating with a dark blue horizontal cartouche.
[2] A yellow four-pointed star form with a light blue and beige octagonal centre, alternating with a dark blue vertical cartouche.
Scattered angular forms are in between these motifs. All were originally outlined in black cross stitch.
The border is bias-cut woven silk; this would have been woven as a piece of diagonally striped fabric, and would have been cut to produce bias-cut borders. It is decorated with a thin black meander, bearing pink roses or blue star flowers and either light green parakeets or white doves.
Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): white, black, red, pink, yellow, beige, light blue, light turquoise, dark blue, mid-blue [two shades]; (Backing): pink cotton; (Facing): light blue bias-cut satin.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, embroidering, sewing
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; Panel, silk-embroidered cotton with woven silk borders, both cut down from larger textiles, packed design of octagons, cartouches and crosses, Azerbaijan or NW Iran, possibly 1770-1800
Physical description
Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and cross stitch and pulled thread work, backed with plain weave cotton with a facing of silk satin and with an applied border of woven silk. There is a plain weave cotton inter-lining.
White silk has been used to overcast a pulled thread ground around two motifs in alternate rows:
[1] A faded pink octagon infilled with a light blue eight-pointed star, alternating with a dark blue horizontal cartouche.
[2] A yellow four-pointed star form with a light blue and beige octagonal centre, alternating with a dark blue vertical cartouche.
Scattered angular forms are in between these motifs. All were originally outlined in black cross stitch.
The border is bias-cut woven silk; this would have been woven as a piece of diagonally striped fabric, and would have been cut to produce bias-cut borders. It is decorated with a thin black meander, bearing pink roses or blue star flowers and either light green parakeets or white doves.
Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): white, black, red, pink, yellow, beige, light blue, light turquoise, dark blue, mid-blue [two shades]; (Backing): pink cotton; (Facing): light blue bias-cut satin.
Dimensions
  • Height: 456mm
  • Width: 464mm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
(An ink mark reading 'al 20' on the back.)
Object history
Items 142-1884 to 264-1884 purchased together for 15s. 7d. from S. Churchill, Tehran.
Bibliographic reference
This embroidery belongs to Group 3 as defined by Jennifer Wearden, 'Azerbaijanian Embroideries: A Synthesis of Contrasts', Hali 59 (October 1991) pp. 102-111. Group 3 textiles are characterised by surface darning on the diagonal, usually in pale shades.
Collection
Accession number
258-1884

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Record createdMarch 11, 2008
Record URL
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