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Puzzle

Handbag
2017 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jonathan Anderson (b.1984) designed the Puzzle bag for Loewe in 2015. It has quickly become one of Loewe’s most recognisable designs. Loewe released this version, printed with William Morris’s ‘Strawberry Thief’ pattern, in 2017.

The maker
Loewe is a Spanish luxury brand specialising in leather goods. It was founded in Madrid in 1846 by a group of leather craftsmen. It was not until 1872 when a German, Enrique Loewe Rossenberg, joined the group that the brand was fully established and Loewe became known for its precision, technical excellence and exquisite craftmanship. They were appointed Official Supplier to the Spanish Royal Crown in 1905. In 1965, following their success selling leather goods, Loewe expanded into the ready-to-wear clothing market, although they remain best known for their leather bags.

Today, Loewe is owned by the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group who bought the house in 1996. In 2013 Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson was appointed as the new Creative Director. Anderson studied at London College of Fashion and started his career in fashion as a visual merchandiser for Prada. He founded his fashion label JW Anderson in 2008 and is known for designs which mix the traditional and the avant-garde. Anderson’s first collection for Loewe was released in 2014 to popular acclaim in the fashion press.

The bag
In 2015 Anderson released his first bag design for Loewe, called Puzzle. Following its release, the Puzzle bag quickly became the ‘It’ bag of the season with Elle magazine calling it ‘the industry's favourite handbag’. In November 2017 Loewe released a capsule collection inspired by the work of nineteenth-century textile designer and writer William Morris. The collection was based around four Morris designs, ‘Strawberry Thief’, ‘Forest’, ‘Acanthus’ and ‘Honeysuckle’. As part of the capsule collection, Loewe released a limited-edition version of the ‘Puzzle’ bag with the ‘Strawberry Thief’ design printed onto the leather.

Object details

Category
Object type
Titles
  • Puzzle (trade title)
  • Loewe x William Morris (named collection)
Materials and techniques
The body of the bag is printed on a deerskin base while the handles, shoulder strap and trims are in calf leather Metal, colour described by Loewe as 'Palladium'
Brief description
Handbag, Puzzle, printed with William Morris's 'Strawberry Thief' pattern, designed by Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, Spain, 2017
Physical description
Handbag, made from over 40 individual pieces of leather. The pieces of leather have been cut into specific geometric shapes which, when stitched together, create the distinctive design of the Puzzle bag. It has an attatched handle and a secondary removable shoulder strap. The metal work is silver-tone.

The leather is printed with William Morris's 'Strawberry Thief' pattern.

The interior is lined with an orange herringbone-patterned cotton-canvas fabric and has two internal pockets.
Dimensions
  • Length: 30cm
  • Height: 18cm
Dimensions indicate this is the standard size Puzzle bag, described on wesbite as 29x19.5x14 cm
Production typeReady to wear
Gallery label
(12/2020)
In November 2017, Loewe released a capsule collection inspired by four William Morris patterns: 'Strawberry Thief' (designed in 1883), 'Forest', 'Acanthus' and 'Honeysuckle'. The collection included a reinterpretation of the brand’s classic 'Puzzle' bag with 'Strawberry Thief' printed onto the leather.

V&A, Room 40, Bags: Inside Out.
Credit line
Given by the Loewe Foundation
Historical context
Loewe make ‘Puzzle’ bags in three sizes: small Puzzle, Puzzle and large Puzzle. They are available in a variety of colours, with new colours released periodically.
Subject depicted
Associations
Summary
Jonathan Anderson (b.1984) designed the Puzzle bag for Loewe in 2015. It has quickly become one of Loewe’s most recognisable designs. Loewe released this version, printed with William Morris’s ‘Strawberry Thief’ pattern, in 2017.

The maker
Loewe is a Spanish luxury brand specialising in leather goods. It was founded in Madrid in 1846 by a group of leather craftsmen. It was not until 1872 when a German, Enrique Loewe Rossenberg, joined the group that the brand was fully established and Loewe became known for its precision, technical excellence and exquisite craftmanship. They were appointed Official Supplier to the Spanish Royal Crown in 1905. In 1965, following their success selling leather goods, Loewe expanded into the ready-to-wear clothing market, although they remain best known for their leather bags.

Today, Loewe is owned by the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group who bought the house in 1996. In 2013 Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson was appointed as the new Creative Director. Anderson studied at London College of Fashion and started his career in fashion as a visual merchandiser for Prada. He founded his fashion label JW Anderson in 2008 and is known for designs which mix the traditional and the avant-garde. Anderson’s first collection for Loewe was released in 2014 to popular acclaim in the fashion press.

The bag
In 2015 Anderson released his first bag design for Loewe, called Puzzle. Following its release, the Puzzle bag quickly became the ‘It’ bag of the season with Elle magazine calling it ‘the industry's favourite handbag’. In November 2017 Loewe released a capsule collection inspired by the work of nineteenth-century textile designer and writer William Morris. The collection was based around four Morris designs, ‘Strawberry Thief’, ‘Forest’, ‘Acanthus’ and ‘Honeysuckle’. As part of the capsule collection, Loewe released a limited-edition version of the ‘Puzzle’ bag with the ‘Strawberry Thief’ design printed onto the leather.

Bibliographic reference
Bags V&A Exhibition (Project) Bags: Inside Out (2020) Lucia Savi, V&A Publishing, pg 50
Collection
Accession number
T.3-2019

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Record createdNovember 19, 2018
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