On loan
  • On short term loan out for exhibition

Dress

1962 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Mary Quant’s designs in the early 1960s often used heavy checked wools and tweeds, taking traditional fabrics sometimes associated with menswear and using them for modern, streamlined dresses for women. She worked with the exaggerated scale of this checked wool coating, placing the bold pattern to emphasise the vertical lines of the body. It is enlivened with quirky, large military style frogging applied at the centre front, exemplifying the irreverent ‘camp’ humour of Quant fashion. This object has additional significance as an example of a coat-dress, a formal garment-type which has now effectively fallen out of use but was ideal for formal out-door occasions and events in chilly buildings before the advent of widespread central heating.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Brief description
Dress or coat-dress designed by Mary Quant, retailed by Bazaar, 1962. Heavy, large-scale checked wool tweed with frogging.
Physical description
A dress or coat-dress of wool tweed, white with large check in black. With stand collar and long sleeves, below-knee-length, fastening centre-back with a zip. Three large black silk military style frogging appliquéd to centre front, centred within three of the six large checks down the length of the dress.
Gallery label
(March 2020)
COAT-DRESS
1962
Worn by Venetia Pollock


Woollen coat-dresses were ideal for formal outdoor occasions in cool British weather, or cold houses when central heating was a rare luxury. Venetia Pollock wore this scaled-up check tweed coat-dress for a ceremony to launch a refurbished ship owned by her husband, as reported by society magazine, Tatler. She was married to Philip Pollock, a businessman who helped Terence Conran to finance his shop Habitat.


Wool tweed with silk frogging
Labelled ‘Mary Quant London’
Made in London
Given by the family of the late Philip Pollock
V&A: T.286-2020

CON186/MQ028: Image Caption
Venetia Pollock wearing her coat-dress
Photograph by Jane Brown for Tatler, 23 May 1962
Courtesy of the family of the late Philip Pollock




CON24: Image caption

‘STEALING A MARCH ON THE GUARDS’
1961
Photograph by John Cowan
© John Cowan Archive

Credit line
Given by the family of the late Philip Pollock
Summary
Mary Quant’s designs in the early 1960s often used heavy checked wools and tweeds, taking traditional fabrics sometimes associated with menswear and using them for modern, streamlined dresses for women. She worked with the exaggerated scale of this checked wool coating, placing the bold pattern to emphasise the vertical lines of the body. It is enlivened with quirky, large military style frogging applied at the centre front, exemplifying the irreverent ‘camp’ humour of Quant fashion. This object has additional significance as an example of a coat-dress, a formal garment-type which has now effectively fallen out of use but was ideal for formal out-door occasions and events in chilly buildings before the advent of widespread central heating.
Bibliographic reference
Venetia Pollock wearing the coat-dress at an event documented by Jane Bown published in Tatler, 23 May 1962. The dress was used for a fashion shoot by John Cowan, for a photograph of model Marie-France wearing a bearskin-inspired hat outside Buckingham Palace, titled ‘Stealing a March on the Guard’, published in Philippe Garner, John Cowan: Through the Light Barrier (1999).
Collection
Accession number
T.286-2019

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Record createdOctober 16, 2018
Record URL
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