woven silk satin lined with glazed resist-dyed, roller-printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced striped satin with back inserts and [folded] sleeves showing pattern inverted. The garment has a full length ovoid opening at the front with a reinforced back neck band in the same patterned silk. It is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulders with various shaped inserts back and front to form a hipped outline [NB. originally these hip panels were open but were later sewn together]. The long, pointed narrow sleeves are set at right angles to the main pieces; directly under the arm they are joined open to the open gusset; they are then seamed to the elbow, and then left open tapering sharply to form the pointed cuff, the fabric being folded inside and an interior cuff backing of the same fabric being added. There is no sign of a fastening.
The main silk is striped satin in red and yellow. Each stripe separated by narrow blue and brown banding. The yellow stripe contains alternately a lily type plant and a pine cone type plant in red with green leaves while the red stripe contains alternately in the same row the pine cone and the lily in light blue with green leaves - all outlined in brown.
One sleeve cuff and part of the hem facing show the loom end indicated by 10 wefts of light blue and pink.
Warp: silk: yellow, red, blue and brown, all Z-twist
Weft: silk: pink, red, light blue, green, brown, no discernable twist.
Facing: bias cut from the main fabric.
Lining: glazed roller printed cotton with red ground and small offset bands of stylised flowering stems in white outlined in dark brown.
Small independent pocket in this lining fabric on the left inside, opening at the top. This is backed with an unglazed plain weave cotton with a red ground printed with an intricate boteh motif arranged in offset rows in green, light blue, white outlined in black.