Jacket thumbnail 1
Jacket thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

woven silk twill, faced with bias cut plain weave silk and lined with plain weave block printed cotton.
Multi-pieced silk with floating wefts on the reverse with back inserts and [folded] back sleeves showing patterning inverted. The garment has a full length inverted conical opening [ie. no cross over] with a reinforced neckband in same fabric. It is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulder with various shaped inserts back and front to form a seamed but edged hipped outline. The long sleeves are set at right angles to the main panels but left open/unseamed joining onto the open gusset. A short loop linking the sleeve edges is placed at the elbow area using the facing silk. The sleeve tapers slightly to a central pointed cuff. Both shoulder seams show the ends of the loom piece: 4 green wefts either side of 6 yellow wefts.
The main silk is a deep yellow silk twill patterned with a small stylised boteh motif in crimson and blue with pink-brown details and green leaves. Arranged in offset rows, one row facing left and the next facing right. The weft floats on the back.
Warp: yellow Z-twist silk
Weft: silk, orange, pink, red, blue, green, brown: Z-twist
The facings are black silk.
Lining: plain weave cotton, white ground printed with oval-shaped floral sprays. Light green leaves, dark green stems and flowers and buds in red, pink, yellow and purple. A small unbacked independent pocket is placed high on the right front and a larger pocket is on the left hand side. Both are made from the lining fabric.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, cotton yarn, weaving, block printing, sewing.
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1800s, Persian
Physical description
woven silk twill, faced with bias cut plain weave silk and lined with plain weave block printed cotton.
Multi-pieced silk with floating wefts on the reverse with back inserts and [folded] back sleeves showing patterning inverted. The garment has a full length inverted conical opening [ie. no cross over] with a reinforced neckband in same fabric. It is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulder with various shaped inserts back and front to form a seamed but edged hipped outline. The long sleeves are set at right angles to the main panels but left open/unseamed joining onto the open gusset. A short loop linking the sleeve edges is placed at the elbow area using the facing silk. The sleeve tapers slightly to a central pointed cuff. Both shoulder seams show the ends of the loom piece: 4 green wefts either side of 6 yellow wefts.
The main silk is a deep yellow silk twill patterned with a small stylised boteh motif in crimson and blue with pink-brown details and green leaves. Arranged in offset rows, one row facing left and the next facing right. The weft floats on the back.
Warp: yellow Z-twist silk
Weft: silk, orange, pink, red, blue, green, brown: Z-twist
The facings are black silk.
Lining: plain weave cotton, white ground printed with oval-shaped floral sprays. Light green leaves, dark green stems and flowers and buds in red, pink, yellow and purple. A small unbacked independent pocket is placed high on the right front and a larger pocket is on the left hand side. Both are made from the lining fabric.
Dimensions
  • Length: 66cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 164cm
  • Hem circumference: 95cm
Association
Collection
Accession number
69-1877

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Record createdFebruary 26, 2008
Record URL
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