Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jacket, woven silk and metal thread, twill binding, with plain weave silk facing and block and resist printed cotton lining, partially padded and quilted.
Multi-pieced jacket, which might be a man's jacket, of plain weave silk with a curved V-shaped opening. Long sleeves terminated in a cuff point, open from the open underarm gusset but caught together with three stitches at the elbow. Long hipped outline. Padded and quilted along the collar and the back of the neck. Small pocket in the lining fabric on the inside left, containing a short length of black silk cord holding a small brass hook.
Main silk: madder pink plain weave silk ground with a small repeat pattern in offset rows: floral spray in white and metal thread with light blue and green leaves outlined in dark green and brown. These motifs face left in one row and right in the next.
Warp: red/pink silk
Weft: light blue, light green, dark green, brown silk and silver-gilt strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Facing: bias-cut dark blue [some faded] plain weave silk. Was this original because it is not on the back hip section?
Lining: [1] coarse plain weave cotton originally blue ground, but faded in the central back section, with resist and block printed botehs in offset rows, with yellow stem and white and brown details. Not exact patterning. There is a small pocket on the inside left front.
[2] in the lower arm section: a glazed white cotton patterned with a densely packed floral motif arranged in offset rows, in mainly red, blue, purple, green and some yellow arranged in blocks.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, cotton yarn, metal thread, weaving, block printing, resist printing, quilting, sewing.
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1800s, Persian
Physical description
Jacket, woven silk and metal thread, twill binding, with plain weave silk facing and block and resist printed cotton lining, partially padded and quilted.
Multi-pieced jacket, which might be a man's jacket, of plain weave silk with a curved V-shaped opening. Long sleeves terminated in a cuff point, open from the open underarm gusset but caught together with three stitches at the elbow. Long hipped outline. Padded and quilted along the collar and the back of the neck. Small pocket in the lining fabric on the inside left, containing a short length of black silk cord holding a small brass hook.
Main silk: madder pink plain weave silk ground with a small repeat pattern in offset rows: floral spray in white and metal thread with light blue and green leaves outlined in dark green and brown. These motifs face left in one row and right in the next.
Warp: red/pink silk
Weft: light blue, light green, dark green, brown silk and silver-gilt strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Facing: bias-cut dark blue [some faded] plain weave silk. Was this original because it is not on the back hip section?
Lining: [1] coarse plain weave cotton originally blue ground, but faded in the central back section, with resist and block printed botehs in offset rows, with yellow stem and white and brown details. Not exact patterning. There is a small pocket on the inside left front.
[2] in the lower arm section: a glazed white cotton patterned with a densely packed floral motif arranged in offset rows, in mainly red, blue, purple, green and some yellow arranged in blocks.
Dimensions
  • Length: 68cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 168.5cm
  • Hem circumference: 102cm
Marks and inscriptions
(Inscription: small paper printed lable inside left with inked number '55'.)
Association
Collection
Accession number
67-1877

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Record createdFebruary 26, 2008
Record URL
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