Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jacket, silk satin with metal thread, twill binding, faced with plain weave silk and lined with resist and block printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced jacket, possibly for a man or boy, in silk satin with a V-necked opening, squared off at the end; short but pointed sleeves now seamed along upper arms but originally open as are the under arm gussets. Long hipped outline largely left open. Two front loops, one in black cord holding a metal button but it is unclear whether the plain blue cord loop is original, and the exact position of the closure point is unclear.
Main Fabric: madder pink satin patterned with an open offset repeating pattern in twill of 2 stylised leaves and fan-shaped petals in yellow outlined in dark brown, with a green and yellow base; some small yellow details separate the motifs top and bottom.
Warp: madder pink silk; Z-twist
Weft: pink, brown and green silk with silver strip open S-wound on a yellow silk core.
There is evidence of a loom end front and back at the shoulder seam of 4 lines of metal thread. The pattern motif is very like others found in fragments in the Collection.
Facing: bias cut plain weave black silk along hem. Note how the facings have been sewn together along the sleeves.
Lining: pieced from three fabrics:
[1] front and back: coarse white plain weave cotton resist and block printed with large floral sprays in ovoid shapes in olive green, brown and pink; arranged in offset rows.
[2] inside front flaps: coarse pinkish-white plain weave cotton resist and block printed with intertwining delicate black stems bearing light green leaves and rust red blossoms.
[3] As cuff facing: rust red plain weave cotton, resist and block printed with a small, repeating pattern of 3 floral stems in offset rows in light blue, yellow and green and white.
[4] Inside left sleeve coarse plain weave cotton with olive green field carrying white flower heads with yellow stem in offset rows- block resist printed.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, metal thread, cotton yarn, weaving, resist printing, block printing, sewing.
Brief description
Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1800s, Persian
Physical description
Jacket, silk satin with metal thread, twill binding, faced with plain weave silk and lined with resist and block printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced jacket, possibly for a man or boy, in silk satin with a V-necked opening, squared off at the end; short but pointed sleeves now seamed along upper arms but originally open as are the under arm gussets. Long hipped outline largely left open. Two front loops, one in black cord holding a metal button but it is unclear whether the plain blue cord loop is original, and the exact position of the closure point is unclear.
Main Fabric: madder pink satin patterned with an open offset repeating pattern in twill of 2 stylised leaves and fan-shaped petals in yellow outlined in dark brown, with a green and yellow base; some small yellow details separate the motifs top and bottom.
Warp: madder pink silk; Z-twist
Weft: pink, brown and green silk with silver strip open S-wound on a yellow silk core.
There is evidence of a loom end front and back at the shoulder seam of 4 lines of metal thread. The pattern motif is very like others found in fragments in the Collection.
Facing: bias cut plain weave black silk along hem. Note how the facings have been sewn together along the sleeves.
Lining: pieced from three fabrics:
[1] front and back: coarse white plain weave cotton resist and block printed with large floral sprays in ovoid shapes in olive green, brown and pink; arranged in offset rows.
[2] inside front flaps: coarse pinkish-white plain weave cotton resist and block printed with intertwining delicate black stems bearing light green leaves and rust red blossoms.
[3] As cuff facing: rust red plain weave cotton, resist and block printed with a small, repeating pattern of 3 floral stems in offset rows in light blue, yellow and green and white.
[4] Inside left sleeve coarse plain weave cotton with olive green field carrying white flower heads with yellow stem in offset rows- block resist printed.
Dimensions
  • Length: 66cm
  • Across shoulders and sleeves width: 102cm
  • Hem circumference: 116cm
Marks and inscriptions
(Inscription: small paper label printed: 'on loan from The Science & Art Dept. no.2/1099')
Association
Collection
Accession number
66-1877

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Record createdFebruary 26, 2008
Record URL
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