Costume consisting of a coat, gown and underdress, worn by Stephanie Friede as Elettra in Mozart's opera Idomeneo at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1991. Designed by John Napier.

S.211:1-2018, Coat

Lightweight blue and orange t-shaped coat or cape. The coat has a pale blue lining/ground fabric with floating panels of fine burnt orange chiffon[?] used for the exterior. It is open at the front and has a soft round neckline, extending out to the proper left and proper right side to create loose ‘sleeves’ formed from two rectangular panels, which drape loosely down either side of the front opening.

The front panels are formed from burnt orange chiffon[?] which are edged with a wide border of deep orange ribbed silk[?] itself enclosed within a narrow black fabric border. Groups of hand painted vertical straight black lines have also been added at the shoulder line of these hanging panels.

The rear of the cape is formed from a wide panel of burnt orange chiffon[?] at the rear. Further bands of burnt orange silk[?] have been appliqued around the shoulder line meeting in a triangular point at the centre back shoulder line. The base of this point is highlighted with a decorative black hanging fabric tassel.

Cord fabric tassels are also suspended from the base of the ‘sleeves’ and three further narrow fabric cords hang down from the front and rear ‘sleeve’ edges. A small metal golden flower shaped decoration is present at the base of each of the cords.

S.211:2-2018, Gown

Orange, yellow and black three-quarter length gown. The gown is formed from several layers of fabric. It has a wide round neckline and has a t-shaped construction. It is open at the front and flows loosely over the figure, hanging to a point below at the knee at the rear and falling into two straight, hanging panels over the proper left and proper right side of the centre front opening. The bottom corners of these front panels are slightly curved at the base.

It has a burnt orange silk ground woven with a pattern of diamond and vertical lines, which is edged with a narrow band of black silk[?]. Further softly pleated lengths of striped yellow silk[?] and black and white polka dot print chiffon[?] are stitched to the shoulder line and hang down in floating panels at the rear and across the front opening. The front lengths of black and white chiffon[?] are bordered with matching vertically striped lengths of chiffon[?]. The base of these are bordered with a black tasselled fringe.

The gown fastens with two narrow fabric cords at the interior waist. There are also two press studs at either side of the front neckline (these match press studs on the underdress). A fabric hanging loop is present at the centre back interior of the neckline.

S.211:3-2018, Underdress

Loose fitting dress with a low ‘V’ shaped neckline and wide hanging sleeves. The bodice and outer sleeves of the dress are made from a lightweight synthetic cream fabric. The bodice has wide hanging over sleeves and close fitting cream crepe undersleeves. The cuff is decorated with narrow pintucks and with scalloped rows of red machine stitching. Two slits (about 5cms in length) are set into the front and rear base of the over sleeves.
The straight skirt, which is also cream, is formed from a lightweight fabric. It is shaped with pleating and is joined to the bodice at the waist with a horizontal cream cotton Petersham style band.

Panels of a dark burnt orange silk[?] fabric have been used to define the neckline, waist and centre front of the dress. Edged with narrow bands of black silk, these sit in a ‘V’ shaped collar at the front and rear of the neckline, joining to meet in a sash at the waist.

This sash is constructed in three parts, with a long hanging vertical central panel (reaching from the waist to the hem, about 106.5cms long) and two horizontal panels (about 15cms in width) running from the left and right side of the centre front. These side panels lace shut at the centre back with 5 pairs of metal eyelets and are stiffened with 5 vertical channels of boning. They create definition at the waistline, echoing the effect of the ‘obi’ sash which would traditionally be worn with a kimono. Two hanging black fabric cords, each ending in a decorative gold sphere, are suspended from the base of this sash.

The dress fastens at the centre back of the collar with a pair of press studs and with 9 pairs of hooks and eyes which runs down the centre back opening of the bodice. 2 further pairs of hooks and eyes are present at the waistband of the skirt.

Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd

Ensemble referencing the elements associated with a Japanese kimono. This stylised version consists of a coat, gown and underdress and was worn by Stephanie Friede as Elettra in Mozart's opera Idomeneo at Glyndebourne Opera House, 1991. Designed by John Napier (b.1944)

S.211:1 to 3-2018