Slate grey bodice and skirt, with false shirt front and matching feather trimmed hat, worn by Rae Woodland as Lady Jowler in a production of The Rising of the Moon at Glyndebourne Opera House. Designed by Osbert Lancaster (1908-1986), 1970-1.

S.203:1-2018, Bodice

Tailored slate grey wool[?] bodice, cut like a jacket and with long sleeves. It has a soft collar faced with crimson cotton velvet and opening out into narrow revers. Bands of crimson cotton velvet have also been used to face the turned back cuffs and to create the effect of stiff, triangular turned back panels at the base of the proper right and proper left front opening. The cuffs feature 3 decorative covered buttons and are open at the wrist where they can be secured with 3 pairs of hooks and eyes.

The bodice fastens with a vertical row of 7 metal hooks and eyes. These are masked by 6 false buttons, each of which has been covered with crimson cotton velvet.

The bodice is lined throughout with black polyester[?]. A horizontal row of 8 evenly spaced elastic loops have been positioned at the interior waist. These loops match buttons which are present on the waistband of the skirt.

S.203:2-2018, Skirt

Long full slate grey skirt trimmed with bands of deep crimson cotton velvet. The skirt is lined with grey cotton and has been faced with a panel of beige hessian[?] at the hem. The skirt appears to extend into a slight train at the rear and the upper part of the centre front features decorative ruched panels.

The impression of a train has actually been created with a floating panel which is secured to the rear waist of the internal grey cotton skirt. This panel extends round to the proper left and proper right side of the skirt front and its hem is edged with a band of crimson cotton velvet. This ‘train’ section of this floating panel has been carefully shaped with ruching to create an integral bustle effect. The section of ruching has been fixed into shape with lengths of black cotton tape.

The internal skirt opens at the centre back waist and is secured with four press studs and a metal hook and eye. A band of closely woven cream cotton tape runs around the waistline, where cotton hanging loops are also present. 8 buttons, matching up with the loops at the interior of the bodice, also run around the waistline and these enable the wearer to secure the bodice to the skirt.

S.203:3-2018, False Shirt Front

Fine white fabric shirt front. The shirt front is sleeveless and reaches to waist level. It is formed from three panels and joined to a narrow elasticated waistband and at the collar. It extends up into a small pleated collar and is secured at the centre front with a pair of hooks and eyes at the waist.

S.203:4-2018, Hat

High crowned slate grey ribbed silk[?] hat. The hat is trimmed with feathers and a decorative watered silk ribbon band runs around the base.

The upturned brim is faced with a band of crimson cotton velvet and rises to a triangular point at the side. Directly above this triangular ‘point’, the hat is trimmed with a spray of cream ostrich feathers.

The hat is lined with black polyester[?] and a black Petersham band runs around the interior brim. 7 beige cotton loops have also been positioned at regularly spaced intervals around the interior of the brim.

Given by Glyndebourne Productions Ltd

Slate grey bodice and skirt, with false shirt front and matching feather trimmed hat, worn by Rae Woodland as Lady Jowler in a production of The Rising of the Moon at Glyndebourne Opera House. Designed by Osbert Lancaster (1908-1986), 1970-1.

S.203:1 to 4-2018