'Overdraft' waistcoat thumbnail 1
'Overdraft' waistcoat thumbnail 2
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images
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Fashion, Room 40

'Overdraft' waistcoat

Waistcoat
1967
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Ensemble designed by Mary Quant for Ginger Group in about 1967. Frances Arter purchased this ensemble in London. It became one of her staple work outfits, worn with a blouse or roll-necked jumper. The use of wool suiting material, as well as a waistcoat, both traditionally associated with menswear, demonstrate Quant’s playful subversion of gender stereotypes through fashion. Variations of this design can be found in fashion photography, including a version in which shorts rather than a skirt are worn. The same design, in tweed, featured in Vogue, March 1967, worn by the model Twiggy.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Waistcoat
  • Skirt
Titles
  • 'Overdraft' waistcoat (assigned by artist)
  • 'Cheque book' skirt (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Brief description
waistcoat and skirt, designed by Mary Quant for Ginger Group, Wales, c.1967
Physical description
Ensemble, skirt and waistcoat. Skirt and front of waistcoat are made from pinstriped wool material. The back of the waistcoat and lining are red. The waistcoat has four plastic buttons.
Gallery label
[Mary Quant exhibition, 2019] ‘OVERDRAFT’ WAISTCOAT AND ‘CHEQUE BOOK’ SKIRT 1967 Worn by Frances Arter Frances Arter enjoyed wearing this outfit at the television company near Carnaby Street, where she worked. The garment names reference the masculine world of finance and banking while emphasising the irony of gender inequality. Although the first credit card was introduced to Britain in 1966, most women were unable to access credit without a male relative acting as guarantor. Wool; Acrilan jersey (modern shirt and bow tie) Labelled ‘Mary Quant’s Ginger Group’ Made by Steinberg, Pontypridd, Wales (probably) Given by Frances Arter V&A: T.75:1&2-2018 (30/03/2020)
Credit line
Given by Frances Arter
Object history
This object was acquired as part of the V&A's #WeWantQuant campaign. This was a public call-out for objects designed by Mary Quant. This was run as part of the preparation for an exhibition on Mary Quant 2019/2020
Summary
Ensemble designed by Mary Quant for Ginger Group in about 1967. Frances Arter purchased this ensemble in London. It became one of her staple work outfits, worn with a blouse or roll-necked jumper. The use of wool suiting material, as well as a waistcoat, both traditionally associated with menswear, demonstrate Quant’s playful subversion of gender stereotypes through fashion. Variations of this design can be found in fashion photography, including a version in which shorts rather than a skirt are worn. The same design, in tweed, featured in Vogue, March 1967, worn by the model Twiggy.
Collection
Accession number
T.75-2018

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Record createdJuly 25, 2018
Record URL
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