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This object consists of 4 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Robe a La Francaise

1760s
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A robe à la française of pale green silk with horizontal white stripes woven into the ground. The pattern of greens, red and yellow was produced by the technique of resist-dyeing. Its characteristic shadowy effect was obtained by arranging specific warp threads in groups (or branches, hence the name chiné à la branche) while they were stretched on the loom prior to weaving.

The robe proper is open down the front with elbow-length sleeves. The bodice is partially lined with glazed linen, with four pairs of linen ties at centre back. At the back, there are two, double box pleats. The robe is made of six widths of silk, with a narrow gore at each side front. A pinked and gathered trim runs down each side of the front. The waist seam runs from each front opening to the side seam and there is a pocket slit on each side.

The petticoat is made of five widths of silk, with a narrow linen tape binding the centre front and centre back of the waist. One each side of the waist at front and back, there is a casing with linen tape, to adjust the sides of the petticoat to fit a hoop.

The ensemble was probably made in the in 1760s, with pinked sleeve ruffles at the elbow. It was updated in style, probably in the 1770s and possibly adjusted for another wearer. The sleeve ruffles were removed and the stomacher was remade and trimmed, possibly using the gathered, pinked trim from the front robings, or the sleeve ruffles - a part of one remains.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.

  • Robe a La Francaise
  • Petticoat
  • Stomacher
  • Sleeve Ruffle, Part
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen; hand-woven and hand-sewn
Brief description
Robe a la francaise, French, 1760s; made of pale green silk, striped with white, with green, red and yellow chine pattern.
Physical description
A robe à la française of pale green silk with horizontal white stripes woven into the ground. The pattern of greens, red and yellow was produced by the technique of resist-dyeing. Its characteristic shadowy effect was obtained by arranging specific warp threads in groups (or branches, hence the name chiné à la branche) while they were stretched on the loom prior to weaving.

The robe proper is open down the front with elbow-length sleeves. The bodice is partially lined with glazed linen, with four pairs of linen ties at centre back. At the back, there are two, double box pleats. The robe is made of six widths of silk, with a narrow gore at each side front. A pinked and gathered trim runs down each side of the front. The waist seam runs from each front opening to the side seam and there is a pocket slit on each side.

The petticoat is made of five widths of silk, with a narrow linen tape binding the centre front and centre back of the waist. One each side of the waist at front and back, there is a casing with linen tape, to adjust the sides of the petticoat to fit a hoop.

The ensemble was probably made in the in 1760s, with pinked sleeve ruffles at the elbow. It was updated in style, probably in the 1770s and possibly adjusted for another wearer. The sleeve ruffles were removed and the stomacher was remade and trimmed, possibly using the gathered, pinked trim from the front robings, or the sleeve ruffles - a part of one remains.
Dimensions
  • Width of silk, selvedge to selvedge width: 59.0cm
  • Robe, right shoulder to hem length: 145.5cm
  • Right front edge to left front edge, under armholes circumference: 64.5cm
Bibliographic references
  • Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion, edited by Lesley Ellis Miller and Ana Cabrera Lafuente with Claire Allen-Johnstone, Thames and Hudson Ltd. in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, United Kingdom, 2021, p. 323
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
T.48-2018

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Record createdJuly 23, 2018
Record URL
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