Necklace thumbnail 1

Necklace

1832-1835 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Most Italian traditional necklaces are made of beads, in designs which have been worn for centuries. The design of this one only dates back to the beginning of the 19th century, when similar necklaces, made from fine gold chains, were the height of fashion throughout Europe during the reign of the Emperor Napoleon of France. Similar necklaces survive in use in some regions of France, but the yellow gold filigree pendant on this necklace, with red gold facings, is uniquely Italian. Gold filigree jewellery like this was worn throughout southern Italy in the 19th century, and is still being made and worn there today. This necklace is marked in many places with a gold mark used in southern Italy in the 1830s.

In the 19th century, Italian women usually fastened their necklaces with silk ribbons. The two loops at the ends of this necklace may originally have held ribbons, but they may also have been used to fasten the necklace directly to the wearer's costume.

It was bought for £4 as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Red and yellow gold, filigree, seed pearls and enamel
Brief description
Necklace of graduated chains of linked gold plaques, with filigree, enamel and seed pearl pendant, Naples (Italy), 1832-1835.
Physical description
Necklace of three graduated chains made from thin stamped plaques in fancy shapes, with an oval plaque in the centre, decorated with filigree, seed pearls and enamel. Three more similar chains hang down from the plaque, ending in a circular plaque of yellow gold filigree, with a red gold star superimposed.
Dimensions
  • Length: 28.7cm
  • Width: 13.1cm
  • Depth: 0.3cm
Marks and inscriptions
Woman's head between the characters 'N', with a tilde across it, and '6', in rectangular frame. (On both terminal rings, many of the plaques in the chains, and on the suspension ring of the pendant. Mark for 500 standard gold, Naples, 1832-1835.)
Summary
Most Italian traditional necklaces are made of beads, in designs which have been worn for centuries. The design of this one only dates back to the beginning of the 19th century, when similar necklaces, made from fine gold chains, were the height of fashion throughout Europe during the reign of the Emperor Napoleon of France. Similar necklaces survive in use in some regions of France, but the yellow gold filigree pendant on this necklace, with red gold facings, is uniquely Italian. Gold filigree jewellery like this was worn throughout southern Italy in the 19th century, and is still being made and worn there today. This necklace is marked in many places with a gold mark used in southern Italy in the 1830s.

In the 19th century, Italian women usually fastened their necklaces with silk ribbons. The two loops at the ends of this necklace may originally have held ribbons, but they may also have been used to fasten the necklace directly to the wearer's costume.

It was bought for £4 as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.
Bibliographic references
  • 'Italian Jewellery as worn by the Peasants of Italy', Arundel Society, London, 1868, Plate 11
  • Polizzi, Francesco, 'Splendori di Sicilia al Victoria and Albert Museum' (doctoral thesis), Palermo, 2011, p.134.
  • For a similar example, see Gandolfi, Adriana, 'La Presentosa', Poligrafica Mancini, Sambuceto, 2015, p.29.
Collection
Accession number
312-1868

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Record createdFebruary 8, 2008
Record URL
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