In the mid-19th century the goldsmiths of Piedmont developed an elaborate style of filigree hair ornament, based on a thin net of woven silver wire. These delicate headdresses were worn in villages throughout the foothills of the Italian Alps until the early 20th century. Like all Italian headdresses, they were first worn at marriage, and after that on feast days and special occasions.

The burletto or stella was worn on the back of the head, to cover the coiled braids of the wearer's hair. It was held in place by matching hair pins with filigree heads, and accompanied by a filigree hair band across the brow.

This burletto was given to the V&A by Estella Canziani and her father Enrico. She was a professional painter who was also passionately interested in the traditions of northwest Italy. She wrote several books on the songs and culture of the region.