Jacket, woven silk satin and metal thread, twill binding, woollen twill facings, lined with roller printed plain weave cotton.
Multi-pieced satin with back inserts and folded sleeves showing the pattern inverted. The jacket has a long ovoid shaped opening [43.5 cm deep] with reinforced neck band in the same patterned silk. The cross over waist overlap has two cotton ties using the lining fabric, a green silk cord loop on the right waist side and a not original blue thread button on the right overlap.
The garment is formed on one back panel seamed at the shoulders, with variously shaped inserts back and front to form a hipped outline. The long narrow sleeves are set at right angles to the main panels and left open, joining with the open underarm gusset. A short series of inter-linked loops of green silk cord links the open sleeve seams above the elbow area.
Main silk: Dark blue satin patterned with large offset rows of composite botehs, facing left in one row and right in the other. Each boteh is outlined by a coral red band infilled leaf meander in metal thread. This frames a metal thread flowering stem on the dark blue ground. A symmetrical leaf motif is placed along the base line of each separate motif, a small boteh in red and yellow facing in the opposite direction mid-way, while an ornate bud motif terminates the main boteh tip, again in red and yellow.
Warp: dark blue silk, Z-twist
Weft: brown, coral red [faded], silver strip open S-wound on yellow silk core.
Facing, bias cut white and brown striped woollen twill: the white stripe carry 2 types of leaf motif in brown, the larger with green and yellow centres. The brown stripe holds just the green and yellow dot on the same wefts. This facing also covers the inside of the central pointed cuffs.
Lining: a bleached white plain weave cotton roller printed with a small feathery leaf motif outlined in brown. This fabric is also used for the two inside flap ties and it lines the sleeves.
290-1884 is made from a very similar woven silk fabric.