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Warp Threads

2016-2018 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This group of objects (FE.166-2019 to FE.173-2019) reveal the entire process of making a meisen kimono. Very fashionable in the 1920s and 1930s, meisen is a type of durable, affordable, brightly coloured and boldly patterned silk that was made in small rural towns in Gunma prefecture to the northwest of Tokyo. Isesaki was one of the leading centres of production and in the mid-2010s the Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project was initiated with the aim of reviving the skills of creating this type of silk. The design, inspired by those of the 1930s, is by Sudo Reiko (b.1953), artistic director of the Nuno Corporation and one of Japan’s most highly regarded textile designers. Using this design, two sets of stencils were cut. The first set was used for dyeing the warp threads, which were laid out on long boards. Coloured paste was then applied through the stencil using a spatula. The stencil was lifted and carefully re-positioned on the next section and the process repeated. A separate stencil was used for each colour. The weft threads were spun around a board and dyed in the same way using the second set of stencils. The threads were then unwound from the board and woven into the warp. The project was a real journey of discovery for the Isesaki Meisen group as they sought the best ways of working, each step being carefully recorded. At a time when vintage meisen is very fashionable, the group hope that their newly created fabrics, which can be used for kimono and European-style clothing and accessories of various kinds, will prove popular, and that they will be able to pass on the techniques to a new generation of artisans. The Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project kindly gifted to the V&A the whole creative process: design, swatch colours, stencils, undyed warp threads on the reel, dyed warp threads on the reel, dyed weft threads on the board, the threads taken from the boards to use in weaving, and the finished garment.

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Stencil-dyed silk
Brief description
Pre-woven stencil-dyed warp threads wrapped on reel, silk, Japan
Physical description
Pre-woven, stencil-dyed, silk warp threads laid on cardboard around a square wood reel. Part of the process of creating meisen fabric, Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project
Dimensions
  • Whole object as wrapped with cardboard support length: 47.5cm
  • Whole object as wrapped with cardboard support height: 11.8cm
  • Whole object as wrapped with cardboard support width: 11.8cm
Credit line
Given by the Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project
Summary
This group of objects (FE.166-2019 to FE.173-2019) reveal the entire process of making a meisen kimono. Very fashionable in the 1920s and 1930s, meisen is a type of durable, affordable, brightly coloured and boldly patterned silk that was made in small rural towns in Gunma prefecture to the northwest of Tokyo. Isesaki was one of the leading centres of production and in the mid-2010s the Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project was initiated with the aim of reviving the skills of creating this type of silk. The design, inspired by those of the 1930s, is by Sudo Reiko (b.1953), artistic director of the Nuno Corporation and one of Japan’s most highly regarded textile designers. Using this design, two sets of stencils were cut. The first set was used for dyeing the warp threads, which were laid out on long boards. Coloured paste was then applied through the stencil using a spatula. The stencil was lifted and carefully re-positioned on the next section and the process repeated. A separate stencil was used for each colour. The weft threads were spun around a board and dyed in the same way using the second set of stencils. The threads were then unwound from the board and woven into the warp. The project was a real journey of discovery for the Isesaki Meisen group as they sought the best ways of working, each step being carefully recorded. At a time when vintage meisen is very fashionable, the group hope that their newly created fabrics, which can be used for kimono and European-style clothing and accessories of various kinds, will prove popular, and that they will be able to pass on the techniques to a new generation of artisans. The Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project kindly gifted to the V&A the whole creative process: design, swatch colours, stencils, undyed warp threads on the reel, dyed warp threads on the reel, dyed weft threads on the board, the threads taken from the boards to use in weaving, and the finished garment.

Collection
Accession number
FE.170-2019

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Record createdMay 10, 2018
Record URL
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