Not on display

Red Brick Structure

Textile Design
26/12/2015 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This group of objects (FE.166-2019 to FE.173-2019) reveal the entire process of making a meisen kimono. Very fashionable in the 1920s and 1930s, meisen is a type of durable, affordable, brightly coloured and boldly patterned silk that was made in small rural towns in Gunma prefecture to the northwest of Tokyo. Isesaki was one of the leading centres of production and in the mid-2010s the Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project was initiated with the aim of reviving the skills of creating this type of silk. The design, inspired by those of the 1930s, is by Sudo Reiko (b.1953), artistic director of the Nuno Corporation and one of Japan’s most highly regarded textile designers. Using this design, two sets of stencils were cut. The first set was used for dyeing the warp threads, which were laid out on long boards. Coloured paste was then applied through the stencil using a spatula. The stencil was lifted and carefully re-positioned on the next section and the process repeated. A separate stencil was used for each colour. The weft threads were spun around a board and dyed in the same way using the second set of stencils. The threads were then unwound from the board and woven into the warp. The project was a real journey of discovery for the Isesaki Meisen group as they sought the best ways of working, each step being carefully recorded. At a time when vintage meisen is very fashionable, the group hope that their newly created fabrics, which can be used for kimono and European-style clothing and accessories of various kinds, will prove popular, and that they will be able to pass on the techniques to a new generation of artisans. The Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project kindly gifted to the V&A the whole creative process: design, swatch colours, stencils, undyed warp threads on the reel, dyed warp threads on the reel, dyed weft threads on the board, the threads taken from the boards to use in weaving, and the finished garment.

Object details

Category
Object type
TitleRed Brick Structure (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Watercolour on paper
Brief description
Design on paper in red, blue and light brown
Physical description
Original design drawing for textile, watercolour on Japanese paper (washi). The abstract design is executed in blue, red and light brown (in the final textile the latter was substituted for a khaki green). The design is dated, in pencil, 26 Dec 2015 and titled 'Akai renga zukuri' which roughly translates as 'Red Brick Structure'.
Dimensions
  • Width: 34.8cm
  • Length: 135.0cm
Marks and inscriptions
Translation
Red Brick Structure
Transliteration
Akai renga zukuri
Credit line
Given by the Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project
Summary
This group of objects (FE.166-2019 to FE.173-2019) reveal the entire process of making a meisen kimono. Very fashionable in the 1920s and 1930s, meisen is a type of durable, affordable, brightly coloured and boldly patterned silk that was made in small rural towns in Gunma prefecture to the northwest of Tokyo. Isesaki was one of the leading centres of production and in the mid-2010s the Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project was initiated with the aim of reviving the skills of creating this type of silk. The design, inspired by those of the 1930s, is by Sudo Reiko (b.1953), artistic director of the Nuno Corporation and one of Japan’s most highly regarded textile designers. Using this design, two sets of stencils were cut. The first set was used for dyeing the warp threads, which were laid out on long boards. Coloured paste was then applied through the stencil using a spatula. The stencil was lifted and carefully re-positioned on the next section and the process repeated. A separate stencil was used for each colour. The weft threads were spun around a board and dyed in the same way using the second set of stencils. The threads were then unwound from the board and woven into the warp. The project was a real journey of discovery for the Isesaki Meisen group as they sought the best ways of working, each step being carefully recorded. At a time when vintage meisen is very fashionable, the group hope that their newly created fabrics, which can be used for kimono and European-style clothing and accessories of various kinds, will prove popular, and that they will be able to pass on the techniques to a new generation of artisans. The Isesaki Contemporary Double Ikat Meisen Project kindly gifted to the V&A the whole creative process: design, swatch colours, stencils, undyed warp threads on the reel, dyed warp threads on the reel, dyed weft threads on the board, the threads taken from the boards to use in weaving, and the finished garment.
Collection
Accession number
FE.165-2019

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Record createdMay 10, 2018
Record URL
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