Object thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Object

1975 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

With the anti-establishment movements in Germany during this period came a wider desire to challenge tradition and break away from convention. Jewellery was no longer just a sign of wealth and status. It now had sculptural qualities and narrative elements, often critical of modern life and conditions.

The widely used term 'New Jewellery' ('Neuer Schmuck') evokes the spirit of the period. Jewellery makers sought freedom in their artistic expression, emphasising the individual approach and experimenting in forms, materials and techniques. New galleries dedicated to the sale of contemporary jewellery emerged in the major German cities.

Jens Rüdiger Lorenzen (1942-2018) was trained as a goldsmith before graduating at the Kunst + Werkschule, Pforzheim. His first studio was in Wuppertal before becoming a teacher at the Staatliche Zeichenakademie Hanau (1974-1985) and since 1985 has been Professor at the Hochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim.

Lorenzen's jewellery often reflects his great interest in Far Eastern aesthetics, Zen poetry and Japanese garden architecture. A further source of inspiration was the work of the late artist Eva Hesse. His recent book is titled 'Jewellery Sculptures' which is characteristic of his work. The pieces are often sculptures in their own right, which can be worn on the body which he once described as the 'most complex site of action'. It is the owner who decides about the function of the 'jewel'. For Lorenzen jewellery is a fine art.

His later work is characterised by the use of steel, nickel silver and paper.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver, acrylic and paint
Brief description
Object by Jens Rudiger Lorenzen, Germany 1975, silver, acrylic and paint
Dimensions
  • Height: 13.5cm
  • Width: 13.5cm
  • Depth: 1.8cm
Summary
With the anti-establishment movements in Germany during this period came a wider desire to challenge tradition and break away from convention. Jewellery was no longer just a sign of wealth and status. It now had sculptural qualities and narrative elements, often critical of modern life and conditions.

The widely used term 'New Jewellery' ('Neuer Schmuck') evokes the spirit of the period. Jewellery makers sought freedom in their artistic expression, emphasising the individual approach and experimenting in forms, materials and techniques. New galleries dedicated to the sale of contemporary jewellery emerged in the major German cities.

Jens Rüdiger Lorenzen (1942-2018) was trained as a goldsmith before graduating at the Kunst + Werkschule, Pforzheim. His first studio was in Wuppertal before becoming a teacher at the Staatliche Zeichenakademie Hanau (1974-1985) and since 1985 has been Professor at the Hochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim.

Lorenzen's jewellery often reflects his great interest in Far Eastern aesthetics, Zen poetry and Japanese garden architecture. A further source of inspiration was the work of the late artist Eva Hesse. His recent book is titled 'Jewellery Sculptures' which is characteristic of his work. The pieces are often sculptures in their own right, which can be worn on the body which he once described as the 'most complex site of action'. It is the owner who decides about the function of the 'jewel'. For Lorenzen jewellery is a fine art.

His later work is characterised by the use of steel, nickel silver and paper.
Bibliographic reference
Jens Rüdiger Lorenzen Schmuckskulpturen, Kunsthalle Mannheim, Mannheim 2002
Collection
Accession number
M.183-1976

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Record createdJanuary 17, 2008
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