This brooch was designed by the American jeweller Paul Flato. Flato was a very versatile designer and produced jewels in many styles. However, as this example demonstrates, his most innovative pieces were characterised by chunky, geometric shapes made out of gold. Although Flato used gold prominently in many of his pre-war pieces, in this brooch it also reflects the increased use of the metal in jewellery during the 1940s and 50s. This was a result of wartime platinum requisitioning for use in the armaments industry.

Paul Flato enjoyed his greatest success during the 1930s and 40s, when his innovative and often whimsical jewellery was worn by both society ladies and Hollywood stars alike. Many actresses wore his jewels on-screen, including Greta Garbo in Two-Faced Woman and Rita Hayworth in Blood and Sand.