'Reflection' thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

'Reflection'

Brooch
ca. 1940 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The firm of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin formed in 1929, and became an important presence on New York’s Park Avenue. Much of its success came from its distinctive line of ‘Reflection’ jewellery. The ‘Reflection’ line was the first to introduce the bold shapes and colours of modern European jewellery to America.

The jewels were made using the technique of casting, which allowed the firm to create pieces by experimenting with a range of standardised parts. Under the tag line ‘Reflection – Your Personality in a Jewel’ women were encouraged to decide on the arrangement of the parts themselves and create personalised jewellery at a lower cost than was possible with conventional bespoke jewels. The use of dramatic, semi-precious stones also increased their affordability.

The style of ‘Reflection’ jewellery was modified over time, and by the late 1930s and early 1940s it was characterised by the smooth curves evident in this piece.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Title'Reflection'
Materials and techniques
White gold, sapphires, diamonds, moonstones
Brief description
'Reflection' brooch, of white gold, sapphires, diamonds and moonstones, designed and made by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, USA, about 1940
Physical description
Brooch of white gold, sapphires, diamonds and moonstones.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.5cm
  • Width: 6.1cm
  • Depth: 1.9cm
Summary
The firm of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin formed in 1929, and became an important presence on New York’s Park Avenue. Much of its success came from its distinctive line of ‘Reflection’ jewellery. The ‘Reflection’ line was the first to introduce the bold shapes and colours of modern European jewellery to America.

The jewels were made using the technique of casting, which allowed the firm to create pieces by experimenting with a range of standardised parts. Under the tag line ‘Reflection – Your Personality in a Jewel’ women were encouraged to decide on the arrangement of the parts themselves and create personalised jewellery at a lower cost than was possible with conventional bespoke jewels. The use of dramatic, semi-precious stones also increased their affordability.

The style of ‘Reflection’ jewellery was modified over time, and by the late 1930s and early 1940s it was characterised by the smooth curves evident in this piece.
Collection
Accession number
M.168-1978

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Record createdJanuary 17, 2008
Record URL
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