Chain and Pendant
1800-1870 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree.
Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most unusual kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end is a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The hook at the front has an elaborate filigree rosette hanging down from it.
Göllerketten are unique to Switzerland, and parts of south-west Germany, and were worn in most regions, although the design varied from valley to valley. This Göllerkette is typical of the kind used in central Switzerland. It is marked on the hook with an unidentified maker’s mark LEO.
It was bought, with its pair, for £3 the two, at the International Exhibition, London, 1872
Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most unusual kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end is a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The hook at the front has an elaborate filigree rosette hanging down from it.
Göllerketten are unique to Switzerland, and parts of south-west Germany, and were worn in most regions, although the design varied from valley to valley. This Göllerkette is typical of the kind used in central Switzerland. It is marked on the hook with an unidentified maker’s mark LEO.
It was bought, with its pair, for £3 the two, at the International Exhibition, London, 1872
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
|
| Materials and techniques | Silver filigree on silver-gilt back-plate, with silver chain |
| Brief description | Two decorative silver filigree hooks, one with a pendant rosette, linked by a long chain (Göllerkette), Berne (Switzerland), 1800-1870. |
| Physical description | Length of figure-of-eight chain, with a heart-shaped gilt hook at one end, decorated with riveted filigree overlay, and a matching pendant at the other. The pendant consists of a tulip-shaped gilt hook, decorated with a riveted filigree overlay, at the top, from which hangs a large open filigree rosette, with decorative lozenges and coil rings on both sides, with a gilt tulip-shaped pendant, similarly decorated, hanging from the bottom. |
| Dimensions |
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| Marks and inscriptions | 'LEO'. Note On the flat outside face of the hook. Translation Mark of unidentified maker. |
| Subjects depicted | |
| Summary | The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree. Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most unusual kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end is a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The hook at the front has an elaborate filigree rosette hanging down from it. Göllerketten are unique to Switzerland, and parts of south-west Germany, and were worn in most regions, although the design varied from valley to valley. This Göllerkette is typical of the kind used in central Switzerland. It is marked on the hook with an unidentified maker’s mark LEO. It was bought, with its pair, for £3 the two, at the International Exhibition, London, 1872 |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | 1325A&A/PART-1873 |
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| Record created | January 11, 2008 |
| Record URL |
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