Evening Dress thumbnail 1
Evening Dress thumbnail 2
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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Fashion, Room 40

Evening Dress

ca. 1951 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jacques Griffe (1909-96) was one of the few couturiers to start his career in the workrooms. He began working with Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) in 1936, where he learned to drape and cut fabric on small wooden figures in the Vionnet tradition. After the Second World War he worked briefly for Edward Molyneux (1891–1974).

This elegant, pared down design is a typical early 1950s shape with its fitted bodice and full skirt, and would probably have been worn with a matching stole around the shoulders. The fabric is exceptional, with its complex double-weaving technique that creates an unusual frayed ‘ribbon work’ effect. The white silk threads are interwoven with the grey organza.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cut and fringed double weave organza
Brief description
Halter-neck evening dress of cut and fringed double weave white silk thread and grey silk organza, Jacques Griffe, Paris, ca. 1951
Physical description
Halter necked evening dress with full skirt, grey silk organza interwoven with with undulating lines of frayed silk thread, resultant fringes cut straight along edge.
Dimensions
  • Bust circumference: 84cm
  • Waist circumference: 52cm
  • Skirt diameter: 170cm
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Jacques Griffe / Made in Paris, France' (Label - Black on white)
  • '505976' (Handwritten on back of label)
Gallery label
Evening dress (robe du soir) Jacques Griffe (1909-96) Paris About 1951 Griffe was one of the few couturiers to rise from the workrooms. He began working with Vionnet in 1936, where he learned to drape and cut fabric on small wooden figures in the Vionnet tradition. After the war, he worked briefly for Molyneux. His elegant, pared down designs reflect this pedigree. Cut and fringed double weave organza V&A: T.26-2007(22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Object history
The dress was purchased at the Cornette de Saint Cyr auction in Paris, 4 July 2006. No further information regarding provenance was available at that time.
Summary
Jacques Griffe (1909-96) was one of the few couturiers to start his career in the workrooms. He began working with Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975) in 1936, where he learned to drape and cut fabric on small wooden figures in the Vionnet tradition. After the Second World War he worked briefly for Edward Molyneux (1891–1974).

This elegant, pared down design is a typical early 1950s shape with its fitted bodice and full skirt, and would probably have been worn with a matching stole around the shoulders. The fabric is exceptional, with its complex double-weaving technique that creates an unusual frayed ‘ribbon work’ effect. The white silk threads are interwoven with the grey organza.
Bibliographic references
  • L'Officiel, June 1951, p.131 ('Au Casino' supplement)
  • L'Officiel, June 1953 - ' 'Les organzas du soir'
Collection
Accession number
T.26-2007

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Record createdJanuary 10, 2008
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