Barbed Wire
Jacket
ca. 1946 (made)
ca. 1946 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Henry Moore produced three sketchbooks of textile designs in 1943. Thirty of Moore's designs were converted into printed rayon lengths by Zika Ascher. The wide appeal of Moore's designs can be illustrated by the appearance of the 'Barbed Wire' design, used to great effect in the gritty British film noir 'They Made Me a Fugitive' (1947). Made at the Riverside Studios, Hammersmith, the plot centres on the realities of civilian life faced by an ex RAF flyer, Clem Morgan, played by Trevor Howard, and Morgan's descent into the dark underbelly of London's criminal world. In one scene, leading lady Sally Grey appears dressed in a casual robe made of this fabric, designed by wardrobe mistress Dorothy Sinclair; a striking if perhaps none too subtle visual reference to Grey's physical and emotional situation.
For the public, aspirations of glamour were firmly linked with the stars of cinema, and fashions, make up and hairstyles portrayed on screen were avidly copied. Home dressmaking was an economic way of acquiring fashionable clothing and this home-made jacket constructed from 'Barbed Wire' fabric in the V&A's collection illustrates how the maker may have emulated a glamorous screen idol.
For the public, aspirations of glamour were firmly linked with the stars of cinema, and fashions, make up and hairstyles portrayed on screen were avidly copied. Home dressmaking was an economic way of acquiring fashionable clothing and this home-made jacket constructed from 'Barbed Wire' fabric in the V&A's collection illustrates how the maker may have emulated a glamorous screen idol.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Title | Barbed Wire (manufacturer's title) |
Materials and techniques | Screen-printed rayon |
Brief description | Woman's jacket 'Barbed Wire' hand-made in screen-printed rayon, designed by Henry Spencer Moore, made by Ascher Ltd., England, ca. 1946. |
Physical description | Woman's jacket hand-made in screen-printed rayon with a 'barbed wire' design. |
Dimensions |
|
Production type | Unique |
Credit line | Given by Valerie D. Mendes |
Object history | Registered File number 1990/2148. |
Production | Attribution note: Home made jacket |
Subject depicted | |
Summary | Henry Moore produced three sketchbooks of textile designs in 1943. Thirty of Moore's designs were converted into printed rayon lengths by Zika Ascher. The wide appeal of Moore's designs can be illustrated by the appearance of the 'Barbed Wire' design, used to great effect in the gritty British film noir 'They Made Me a Fugitive' (1947). Made at the Riverside Studios, Hammersmith, the plot centres on the realities of civilian life faced by an ex RAF flyer, Clem Morgan, played by Trevor Howard, and Morgan's descent into the dark underbelly of London's criminal world. In one scene, leading lady Sally Grey appears dressed in a casual robe made of this fabric, designed by wardrobe mistress Dorothy Sinclair; a striking if perhaps none too subtle visual reference to Grey's physical and emotional situation. For the public, aspirations of glamour were firmly linked with the stars of cinema, and fashions, make up and hairstyles portrayed on screen were avidly copied. Home dressmaking was an economic way of acquiring fashionable clothing and this home-made jacket constructed from 'Barbed Wire' fabric in the V&A's collection illustrates how the maker may have emulated a glamorous screen idol. |
Collection | |
Accession number | T.405-1990 |
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Record created | December 18, 2007 |
Record URL |
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