Coat
1740-1742 (weaving), 1800-1810 (sewing), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Man’s coat and integral waistcoat of ivory silk taffeta, with a ground warp of paired ends of organzine, brocaded with silk bound in 3/1 twill in a pattern of large semi- naturalistic floral devices and scrolls, in shades of green, brown, blue, pink and yellow. It has a standing 2¾-inch (7 cm) collar, curving 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 5 inches (12.5 cm) deep and narrow pleats beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket, rectangular pocket flap and waistcoat front stitched into the armhole seam. There are 3 worked buttonholes on the left front of the coat and 6 self-covered buttons on the right front edge. The left waistcoat front has 7 worked buttonholes and the right front has 7 self-covered buttons.
It was probably made as a banyan with integral waistcoat fronts about 1800-1810, possibly with the silk from a woman’s gown of an earlier date. The banyan was altered in the late 19th century for fancy dress. The front skirts were cut away to give a more ‘coat-like’ shape and the waistcoat fronts unpicked from the side seams and the right side resewn to make them more visible when worn.
It was probably made as a banyan with integral waistcoat fronts about 1800-1810, possibly with the silk from a woman’s gown of an earlier date. The banyan was altered in the late 19th century for fancy dress. The front skirts were cut away to give a more ‘coat-like’ shape and the waistcoat fronts unpicked from the side seams and the right side resewn to make them more visible when worn.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silk, linen; hand-woven brocade, hand-sewn |
Brief description | Man's fancy dress coat, 1870-1910, made from a banyan, 1800-10 of brocaded silk, Spitalfields, c.1740-2 |
Physical description | Man’s coat and integral waistcoat of ivory silk taffeta, with a ground warp of paired ends of organzine, brocaded with silk bound in 3/1 twill in a pattern of large semi- naturalistic floral devices and scrolls, in shades of green, brown, blue, pink and yellow. It has a standing 2¾-inch (7 cm) collar, curving 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 5 inches (12.5 cm) deep and narrow pleats beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket, rectangular pocket flap and waistcoat front stitched into the armhole seam. There are 3 worked buttonholes on the left front of the coat and 6 self-covered buttons on the right front edge. The left waistcoat front has 7 worked buttonholes and the right front has 7 self-covered buttons. It was probably made as a banyan with integral waistcoat fronts about 1800-1810, possibly with the silk from a woman’s gown of an earlier date. The banyan was altered in the late 19th century for fancy dress. The front skirts were cut away to give a more ‘coat-like’ shape and the waistcoat fronts unpicked from the side seams and the right side resewn to make them more visible when worn. |
Dimensions |
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Credit line | Given by Robert T Bevan and Denis A Gatward |
Bibliographic reference | Une soierie chinoise d'apres un dessin Anglais du XVIII siecle, by Anna Jolly, in CIETA Bulletin 80, 2003, pp.75-83 |
Collection | |
Accession number | T.740-1974 |
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Record created | October 19, 2007 |
Record URL |
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