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Not currently on display at the V&A

New Look

Coat
1947-1948 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

Coat of dark blue-purple silk. With sloping shoulders and a Magyar sleeve. Double-breasted, fastening with self-covered buttons. The narrow cinched waist flares into a full skirt with typical 'New Look' emphasis placed on the hips with both padding, and exaggerated pockets.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silk
Brief Description
'New Look' coat of silk, designed by Christian Dior, Paris, 1947-1948
Physical Description
Coat of dark blue-purple silk. With sloping shoulders and a Magyar sleeve. Double-breasted, fastening with self-covered buttons. The narrow cinched waist flares into a full skirt with typical 'New Look' emphasis placed on the hips with both padding, and exaggerated pockets.
Dimensions
  • Bust circumference: 96cm
  • Waist circumference: 70cm
  • Bottom hem circumference: 160cm
  • Weight: 2.00kg
Stockman mannequin size 42
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and Inscriptions
'11919' (Printed on the label)
Gallery Label
Coat and hat Christian Dior (1905-57) Paris 1947-8 The complex artistry of Dior's garments demanded a high level of dressmaking skills. Dior revived traditional techniques of construction, using solid fabrics reinforced with taffeta or cambric. Coat: silk Hat: cellophane with ribbon trim Hat worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark V&A: T.197-1997 (coat) and T.156-1982 (hat)(22/09/2007)
Credit line
Given by Mrs J. Wates
Historical context
THE NEW LOOK panel text from The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957



Dior launched his new house on 12 February 1947 and became an overnight sensation. His voluptuous collection was the antithesis of lean, boxy wartime fashions. Instead, feminine designs featured rounded shoulders, a womanly bust and a hand-span waist above enormous skirts. It was christened on the spot by Carmel Snow, editor of American Harper's Bazaar, as the 'New Look'.



The amount of fabric required to create a New Look garment - typically 15 metres in a woollen day dress, 25 metres in a short taffeta evening gown - caused outrage, for rationing was still in place. The collection was shown in secret to Princess Margaret at the French Embassy in London. But despite attempts by the Board of Trade to suppress it, the New Look was unstoppable.
Collection
Accession Number
T.197-1997

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record createdOctober 12, 2007
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