Straw has always been one of the most popular natural fibres for hat-making. From superfine strands woven into silky-smooth material, to coarse, chunky heavily textured plaits, straw offers almost infinite possibilities. Some of the finest straw came from wheat grown in Livorno in Italy, used for high-quality lightweight but durable hats and bonnets with a distinctive natural golden colour. Livorno straw hats and imitations were marketed as Leghorn hats in the English-speaking market from the 18th century onwards.

This early 20th century Leghorn hat is unsold stock from a wholesale company called Webron & Webflex Hats, active in London from the late 19th century up to the 1950s. Its only decoration is intricate straw plait around the brim; the velvet hatband was probably added later. Untrimmed hats are called "shapes" in the wholesale market, with the buyer expected to add trimmings to suit their or their customers' taste.