Parasol
1860-1870 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
The parasol was a popular accessory during the 19th and early 20th century, a period when sun tanned skin was highly undesirable. It functioned both as a sunshade and a fashionable accompaniment to dress, distinguishing itself from the umbrella through its infinite and luxurious forms and essentially feminine status. Like the earlier trend for fans parasols displayed an individual's style and could be used in a coquettish ritual to hide the modest bearer from unwanted glances.
Elaborate parasols such as this with intricate Chinese embroidery and dense ivory carving on the handle, were best displayed on carriage rides. Ingenious inventions such as the folding stick, enabling the parasol to be folded in half when not in use, and the 'marquise' hinge, used to angle the cover, were developed in line with this ritual, and both are seen in this example. There is no strap provided to hold the cover closed, instead the parasol is held by a carrying loop on the ferrule, with the cover facing up.
Elaborate parasols such as this with intricate Chinese embroidery and dense ivory carving on the handle, were best displayed on carriage rides. Ingenious inventions such as the folding stick, enabling the parasol to be folded in half when not in use, and the 'marquise' hinge, used to angle the cover, were developed in line with this ritual, and both are seen in this example. There is no strap provided to hold the cover closed, instead the parasol is held by a carrying loop on the ferrule, with the cover facing up.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Embroidered silk cover with fringe including passementerie made of knotted frise silk. The parasol is embroidered with coloured silks in satin stitch and French knots. It has a carved ivory stick and whalebone and metal framework. |
| Brief description | Embroidered satin parasol, China, 1860-1870. |
| Physical description | Parasol with white, satin, domed cover with a spray of naturalistic flowers (pansies, roses, honeysuckle, etc.) embroidered in satin stitch in coloured silks in each quarter. There is a knotted fringe of white silk around the tip and a fringe of strands on a floss braid around the edge. The lining is of white silk. The stick is ivory with silver plated brass mounts, hinged at the top spring to permit changed of angle and halfway up the handle to allow for folding. The handle is a flat crook made of Chinese densely carved ivory. The ribs are of whalebone, the stays of metal. There is a carrying loop at the tip. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production type | Unique |
| Credit line | Given by Lord and Lady Cowdray |
| Object history | A piece of paper at accession was pinned to this parasol, reading: "This parasol, belonging to Queen Victoria, was embroidered for her, in China, to a design of English flowers according to her order." |
| Historical context | The parasol was a popular accessory during the 19th and early 20th century, a period when the sun tan was not seen as desirable. It functioned both as a sunshade and a fashionable accompaniment to dress, distinguishing itself from the umbrella through its infinite and luxurious forms and essentially feminine status. Like the earlier trend for fans parasols displayed an individual's style and could be used in a coquettish ritual to hide the modest bearer from unwanted glances. |
| Subjects depicted | |
| Association | |
| Summary | The parasol was a popular accessory during the 19th and early 20th century, a period when sun tanned skin was highly undesirable. It functioned both as a sunshade and a fashionable accompaniment to dress, distinguishing itself from the umbrella through its infinite and luxurious forms and essentially feminine status. Like the earlier trend for fans parasols displayed an individual's style and could be used in a coquettish ritual to hide the modest bearer from unwanted glances. Elaborate parasols such as this with intricate Chinese embroidery and dense ivory carving on the handle, were best displayed on carriage rides. Ingenious inventions such as the folding stick, enabling the parasol to be folded in half when not in use, and the 'marquise' hinge, used to angle the cover, were developed in line with this ritual, and both are seen in this example. There is no strap provided to hold the cover closed, instead the parasol is held by a carrying loop on the ferrule, with the cover facing up. |
| Bibliographic reference | Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.
This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021) |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.211-1970 |
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| Record created | October 1, 2007 |
| Record URL |
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