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Not currently on display at the V&A

'Mao suit'

Jacket
1976 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This style of suit was initially known as a 'Zhongshan suit' after Sun Zhongshan (Sun Yat-sen), President of the Republic of China for a brief period in 1912. Sun Yat-sen first developed this suit as a form of national dress that would embody modern values as well as a notion of equality and uniformity in the newly established Chinese Republic.

In its original design the suit had six centre front buttons and upper and lower slit pockets and a waisted back section with a vent, the collar was a high stand up collar. The design later developed during the republican era to incorporate elements of military dress, including a turned down collar and four symmetrically placed pockets. When Mao Zedong became leader of the People's Republic of China in 1949, this type of suit was adopted as the national uniform of the people. It was widely worn by the Chinese population from 1949-1976 and as a result this style of suit is now most commonly known as a 'Mao Suit'. The suit came in a range of colours including grey, mustard yellow, brown and navy blue.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Titles
  • 'Mao suit' (generic title)
  • 'Zhongshan suit' (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Dyed twill cotton
Brief description
Jacket, blue twill weave cotton, made in Beijing, China, 1976
Physical description
Man's Jacket. Front fastening with five buttons and corresponding holes running down the front of the jacket and a metal hook and loop at the collars. Long sleeves and short turn-down collar. On the front of the jacket are two stitched, buttoning breast pockets and two further stitched and buttoned pockets in the lower half of the jacket. No lining. Royal blue twill cotton.
Dimensions
  • Top of collar to bottom hem length: 75cm
  • Width: 66cm
  • Shoulder to cuff length: 60cm
Style
Production typeMass produced
Marks and inscriptions
Beijing - Dong cheng qu hou yong kang wu qi fuzhuang chang.
Translation
Beijing - East city district 'Forever healthy' 5, 7 clothing factory.
Credit line
Given by Andy McKillop
Historical context
The 'Mao Suit (or the evolved 'Zhongshan Suit') was the uniform worn by the people of China between 1949 - 1976. This suit was purchased around 1976, towards the end of the Cultural Revolution; the 'Gang of Four' would be arrested and imprisoned imminently. (From donor's notes).
Production
Produced in the East city district 'Forever healthy' 5, 7 clothing factory, Beijing
Associations
Summary
This style of suit was initially known as a 'Zhongshan suit' after Sun Zhongshan (Sun Yat-sen), President of the Republic of China for a brief period in 1912. Sun Yat-sen first developed this suit as a form of national dress that would embody modern values as well as a notion of equality and uniformity in the newly established Chinese Republic.

In its original design the suit had six centre front buttons and upper and lower slit pockets and a waisted back section with a vent, the collar was a high stand up collar. The design later developed during the republican era to incorporate elements of military dress, including a turned down collar and four symmetrically placed pockets. When Mao Zedong became leader of the People's Republic of China in 1949, this type of suit was adopted as the national uniform of the people. It was widely worn by the Chinese population from 1949-1976 and as a result this style of suit is now most commonly known as a 'Mao Suit'. The suit came in a range of colours including grey, mustard yellow, brown and navy blue.
Bibliographic reference
Pages 18 & 19 in 'Evolution and Revolution: Chinese Dress 1700's - 1900's', Ed. Claire Roberts, Powerhouse Publishing, 1997. ISBN 1 86317 0677
Collection
Accession number
FE.3-2005

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Record createdSeptember 19, 2007
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