Pair of Evening Shoes

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Artist/Maker	Christian Dior (designed for) Roger Vivier (designer)
Place of origin	Paris (made)

Roger Vivier (1913-98) was a designer of luxury shoes, and is credited with creating the stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably for Christian Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design - 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier' - which is marked inside every shoe.

He worked in elaborate and expensive materials including silks, pearls, beads, lace, metal threads and jewels.

Object details

Categories	Footwear Fashion Accessories Womenswear Embroidery
Object type	Pair of evening shoes
Parts	This object consists of 2 parts. Shoe Shoe
Materials and techniques	Embroidered silk satin with beads, gilt thread, rhinestones and brilliants Silk Satin Beads Rhinestone Gilt Shoe-Making Embroidery
Brief description	Pair of embroidered silk satin shoes with high heels, designed by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, Paris, 1958-1960
Physical description	Pair of pink silk satin shoes with high heels. Embroidered with beads, gilt thread, rhinestones and pink brilliants. Pointed toe and high stiletto heels.
Dimensions	Height: 140mm Width: 75mm Depth: 250mm (Note: These dimensions were taken by conservation for the exhibition ' Shoes: Pleasure and Pain' (2015-2016))
Style	1950s
Production type	Haute couture
Marks and inscriptions	'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier Paris' (Stamped inside shoe) Translation Christian Dior created by Roger Vivier Paris
Gallery label	(2015-2016) Label for the exhibition Shoes: Pleasure and Pain The Fabergé of Shoes The highly decorated shoes by designer Roger Vivier for Christian Dior in the 1950s and early ’60s represent the ultimate in luxury footwear. Only the wealthiest members of society could afford Dior’s accessories and gowns. The donor and wearer of these shoes, Mrs Gloria Loel Guinness, belonged to one of Europe’s richest families. Beaded evening shoes 1958–60 Paris Roger Vivier for Christian Dior Silk, beads, gilded thread, rhinestones and brilliants Worn and given by Mrs Gloria Loel Guinness V&A: T.149&A-1974 (22/09/2007) Shoes Roger Vivier (1913-98) Paris 1950s Roger Vivier started working for Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, when his designs were considered shocking by major retailers. He went on to collaborate with many couturiers to create shoes for their collections and started collaborating with Dior when the New Look brought emphasis to the ankle and foot. Vivier created a number of innovative heel shapes for Dior, including the comma heel and the stiletto. 1. Shoe, black tulle over satin Roger Vivier (1913-98) 1954 Given by Roger Vivier V&A: T.148-1974 2. Shoe, pink satin embroidered with beads and silk and metal thread Roger Vivier (1913-98) Late 1950s Given by Roger Vivier [credited in error] V&A: T.149-974 3. Shoe, satin embroidered with beads and silk and metal thread Roger Vivier (1913-98) Late 1950s Given by Roger Vivier V&A: T.154-1974 4. Shoe, camouflage pattern Roger Vivier (1913-98) Late 1950s By courtesy of Roger Vivier 5. Shoe, satin with bows Roger Vivier (1913-98) Late 1950s By courtesy of Roger Vivier 6. Shoe, satin with imitation pearls Roger Vivier (1913-98) Late 1950s By courtesy of Roger Vivier
Credit line	Given by Mrs Loel Guinness
Historical context	Designer: Roger Vivier (1913-98) was the designer of luxury shoe designer. He is credited with creating the Stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably designed for Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design: 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier'. Donor: Gloria Rubio y Alatorre, better known as Gloria Guinness (1912-1980) was an elegant socialite and writer of the mid 20th century. Her third husband, whom she married in 1951, was Group Capt. Thomas Loel Guinness, a Member of Parliament (died 1989) and an heir to the Guinness beer fortune. She was voted second 'Best Dressed Woman' in the world by Time magazine in 1962. Jackie Kennedy was in first place. (See Time magazine Jan 26 1962)
Association	Beaton, Cecil
Summary	Roger Vivier (1913-98) was a designer of luxury shoes, and is credited with creating the stiletto heel. He designed for several couturiers, including Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s, but notably for Christian Dior from 1953-63. He is the only one of Dior's collaborators permitted to have a credit on the final design - 'Christian Dior crée par Roger Vivier' - which is marked inside every shoe. He worked in elaborate and expensive materials including silks, pearls, beads, lace, metal threads and jewels.
Bibliographic reference	Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton. London : H.M.S.O., 1971 no. 320
Collection	Textiles and Fashion Collection
Accession number	T.149&A-1974

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Record created	August 3, 2007
Record URL	https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O138235/pair-of-evening-roger-vivier/

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