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Not on display

Doublet

1625-1630 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Man’s doublet of ivory silk satin, interlined with canvas and lined with carnation pink satin. It has a 3-inch (7.4 cm) collar, 2⅛-inch (5.3 cm) deep shoulder wings, curving 2-piece sleeves, with a high waist and 8 laps below the waist. The chest, back and sleeves are paned. The doublet is covered with ½ inch (1.25 cm) wide strips of ivory satin, laid with a narrower silk strip wrapped with silk thread and spiral-plied silk threads. The satin between these strips of embellishment is stamped with floral motifs. The belly piece is made of bents (stems of rushes) stitched between layers of linen and lined with carnation satin. There are 8 worked buttonholes on each sleeve and 43 on the left front with three button loops on the collar. The ⅜-inch (8 mm) diameter wooden buttons are covered with ivory silk thread; only 6 remain. The laps have 8 worked eyelet holes; each lap at centre front has 5. These are decorative, as there is a lacing band at the inside waist with 45 worked eyelets. A lacing loop of carnation satin sits on each belly piece.

The doublet was probably worn for fancy dress in the late 19th century and quilted sleeves of pink silk were added. These have been removed, see T.59:A & B-1910.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, bents; hand-woven, hand-sewn, stamped
Brief description
Man's doublet, 1625-30, English; ivory silk satin, paning, stamped and trimmed with ivory silk woven lace
Physical description
Man’s doublet of ivory silk satin, interlined with canvas and lined with carnation pink satin. It has a 3-inch (7.4 cm) collar, 2⅛-inch (5.3 cm) deep shoulder wings, curving 2-piece sleeves, with a high waist and 8 laps below the waist. The chest, back and sleeves are paned. The doublet is covered with ½ inch (1.25 cm) wide strips of ivory satin, laid with a narrower silk strip wrapped with silk thread and spiral-plied silk threads. The satin between these strips of embellishment is stamped with floral motifs. The belly piece is made of bents (stems of rushes) stitched between layers of linen and lined with carnation satin. There are 8 worked buttonholes on each sleeve and 43 on the left front with three button loops on the collar. The ⅜-inch (8 mm) diameter wooden buttons are covered with ivory silk thread; only 6 remain. The laps have 8 worked eyelet holes; each lap at centre front has 5. These are decorative, as there is a lacing band at the inside waist with 45 worked eyelets. A lacing loop of carnation satin sits on each belly piece.

The doublet was probably worn for fancy dress in the late 19th century and quilted sleeves of pink silk were added. These have been removed, see T.59:A & B-1910.
Dimensions
  • Collar to bottom of lap, centre front length: 66.0cm (approx)
  • Waist circumference: 96.0cm (approx)
Bibliographic references
  • Avril Hart and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: the 17th and 18th centuries, London: V&A, 1998, p. 170
  • Luca Costigliolo, ‘Slashed doublet of stamped ivory silk satin’, in 17th-Century Men’s Dress Patterns, 1600-1630, by Melanie Braun et al. Thames & Hudson and V&A Museum, 2016, pp.112-133
Collection
Accession number
T.59-1910

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Record createdJuly 20, 2007
Record URL
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