With a long preoccupation with gender difference and religious imagery, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have created a subverted glamour. In a tribute to photographer Helmut Newton, their 2004/5 collection experiments with traditional notions of masculinity and femininity. Using tailoring that is sober and severe, juxtaposed with luxurious velvet and glitzy accessories, they turn the tuxedo (complete with bow tie worn rakishly askew) into women's wear. Dolce and Gabbana promoted individual style and the mixture of styles, colours, textures and silhouettes produced in their Autumn/Winter 2004/5 collection expressed the elegant but exuberant spirit of the label. This women's tuxedo suit was worn in the grand finale of the runway show, contrasted with glamorous velvet, lace and silk chiffon evening gowns.