Aquascutum, London, 1988. Purple and pink wool brocade and shot-silk dinner suit with shot-silk cloak.

Purple and deep pink brocade dinner suit, the jacket with scalloped peplum, lower in the back than the front. Removable purple and pink shot-silk cuffs with frills and a removable pleated shot-silk dicky are attached inside neckline and sleeves with covered press-studs. The same silk covers the buttons down the front of the jacket. The skirt is full length and slim cut, the back with a long panel extendng into a short train. Worn with a loose, flowing shot-silk taffeta cloak, sleeveless, with gathered shoulders.

Given by the family of the late Baroness Thatcher

In 1988 Thatcher wore a dramatic purple and pink metallic brocade dinner suit to the Lord Mayor's Banquet. The couture ensemble by Aquascutum was paired with a sweeping purple and pink shot-silk taffeta cloak. This outfit has a powerful visual impact and strong presence. Thatcher wore it with a chunky pearl and diamond necklace and earrings, which played up the regal qualities of the outfit. Some commentators have compared Thatcher's appearance and self-presentation at this time to that of Queen Elizabeth I, who, 400 years earlier, was also a powerful woman in a predominantly masculine world, and who, like Thatcher, used her image and profile to great effect.

- Daniel Milford-Cottam
19/10/2016

T.1592:1 to 3-2017