Man's court ensemble composed of a pink-spattered white muslin jama with matching kurta and paijama, a red muslin kammerband, a pink-spattered white muslin scarf and a smaller red muslin scarf, Jodhpur, Rajasthan, c.1879

The ensemble includes a jama (skirted robe), kurta (tunic) and paijama (trousers), kammerband (waist -sash), two scarves, and a turban. All pieces are embellished with silver-gilt gota (tinsel ribbon).

The double-breasted bodice of the jama is fastened on the left-hand side of the wearer’s body with fastenings on the shoulders and under the arms. Additional internal cords hold the inner panel at the armpit and waist keep the front in place. The back is embellished with an applied gota flower. The long sleeves and heavy skirt are trimmed with gota and gota moti borders of varying widths. The skirt (92m at the hem) is constructed from triangular panels which are sewn together and gathered at the waist. Two flower motifs are hand embroidered in metal thread inside the bottom of the skirt. The fabric for the bodice was sprayed with the dye before constructing the jama, while the skirt was sprayed after its construction.

The kurta has a bell-shaped body, long sleeves and is secured at the neck by two cloth buttons inserted into loops. It is embroidered with a floral spray in silver-gilt thread at the bottom on the front. The paijama is broad in the waist but narrow and fitted in the legs. It is secured with a string at the waist and a cloth button at the ankle.

The accompanying splatter-patterned turban, red muslin kamarband, beard cloth, also flecked with the red dye, and red muslin lapeta (decorative turban band) complete the ensemble. Both narrow edges of the lapeta terminate in panels of silver-gilt cloth impressed with diamond-shaped diapers enclosing a lotus flower.

Given by Miss Isabella M. Impey

According to acquisition records, this man’s court ensemble possibly belongs to Jaswant Singh II (1838 – 1895), the Maharaja of Jodhpur from 1873 to 1895. It was given to the museum by Miss Isabella M. Impey in 1933. The ensemble originally belonged to her father, Eugene Clutterbuck Impey (1830–1904), who was an important figure in early photography in India.

Eugene Impey belonged to a well-known colonial family and started his military career in India in April 1851 in the 5th Regiment of Bengal Native Infantry. In 1858, he became a Political Agent at Alwar in North-Eastern Rajasthan. Later, he served as British Political Agent to Marwar (Jodhpur) for two terms between 1865 and 1873. Impey retired from service on 31 December in 1878 during the reign of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The garment may have come into his possession before he returned to England in 1879.

However, further research suggests the ensemble may have belonged Maharaja Takht Singh (1819 – 1873), the ruler of Jodhpur from 1843 to 1873, and the father of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II.

The spatter-patterning of the man’s court ensemble suggests it was designed as celebration wear for the Hindu festival of Holi.

Spatter-patterned cloth, which is produced by spraying a red dye on white, pale pink or yellow cotton fabric, is locally known as faganya in Jodhpur and Jaipur, named after the spring month of Phalgun (late February to early March) during which Holi is celebrated. From the 17th to 19th centuries the faganya dye-patterning technique was popularly used to decorate garments worn by Rajput rulers during Holi celebrations, and can be seen in paintings such as the portrait of Maharana Amar Singh (museum number IS.55-1997).

This ensemble consists of a pink-spattered white muslin jama (skirted robe) trimmed with silver-gilt gota (tinsel ribbon), worn with a matching paijama (trousers) and a red muslin kammerband (waist-sash). The spattered kurta (tunic) may have been intended for wear underneath the jama. The accompanying small red scarf with stamped gota ends may have been used as a lapeta (decorative turban band) while the pink-spattered muslin with gold borders was designed as a beard cloth.

IM.32-1933