Pair of Shoes thumbnail 1
Pair of Shoes thumbnail 2
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Pair of Shoes

ca. 1925 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The 'Oxford' lace-up shoe was the predominant style in men's footwear during the 1920s. It was known in the trade as a 'closed tab shoe' because the eyelet tabs (the sections of leather with holes for the laces) were stitched under the front section of the shoe, or vamp, rather than on top of it.

Usually Oxfords were made up in black or brown leather for everyday wear. British footwear fashions were conservative during the 1920s with strict rules dictating what colour shoe could be worn with which outfit. Brown shoes with a dinner suit were frowned upon and flamboyance was considered distasteful. The blue and white marbling with gilt decoration of this pair marks them as something out of the ordinary. They were made up for display at the London International Shoe Fair in 1925 and may have been aimed at the American market which was open to more exotic designs.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Shoe
  • Shoe
Materials and techniques
Marbled suede with gilt leather decoration
Brief description
Men's Oxford lace-up shoes, blue and white marbled suede with gilt leather decoration; Coxton Shoe Co. Ltd, Rushden, Northamptonshire, ca. 1925
Physical description
Men's Oxford shoes with squared toe, blue and white marbled effect suede upper with gilt leather decoration and dark green stitching; gilt canvas laces; white leather quarter lining, white canvas tongue and vamp lining, brown leather insole; stacked heel, brown leather sole, wheeling at join between heel and sole.
Dimensions
  • Length: 28.5cm
  • Width: 9.2cm
  • Height: 9.8cm
Marks and inscriptions
'No. 521 / Shape 63 / Fitting...../ Price G - A / THE / RUSHDEN SHOE CO. / RUSHDEN, England' (Blue card tag hanging from cream cotton thread tied to right shoe lace. Printed and inscribed in black ink on one side.)
Gallery label
Label for the exhibition Shoes: Pleasure and Pain Bold and Brazen In the 1920s, British footwear fashions for men were conservative and featured sober colours. With their blue and white marbling and gilded decoration, these shoes are far from the norm. They show that there was a younger market for flamboyant footwear. Or they may have been aimed at the American market, which was more open to exotic designs. Men’s marbled Oxfords About 1925 England Coxton Shoe Co. Ltd Suede, gilded leather and leather V&A: T.52:1, 2-1996(2015-2016)
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1994/1603.
Summary
The 'Oxford' lace-up shoe was the predominant style in men's footwear during the 1920s. It was known in the trade as a 'closed tab shoe' because the eyelet tabs (the sections of leather with holes for the laces) were stitched under the front section of the shoe, or vamp, rather than on top of it.

Usually Oxfords were made up in black or brown leather for everyday wear. British footwear fashions were conservative during the 1920s with strict rules dictating what colour shoe could be worn with which outfit. Brown shoes with a dinner suit were frowned upon and flamboyance was considered distasteful. The blue and white marbling with gilt decoration of this pair marks them as something out of the ordinary. They were made up for display at the London International Shoe Fair in 1925 and may have been aimed at the American market which was open to more exotic designs.
Collection
Accession number
T.52:1, 2-1996

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Record createdMay 25, 2007
Record URL
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